Re: Door Bell Install Via Homerun Closet

["Petem" <petem001@xxxxxxxxx>]

"Robert L Bass" <Sales@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> a écrit dans le message de
groupe de discussion : HqWdnVH3f7N6XSTXnZ2dnUVZ_rqdnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> "petem" wrote:
>>
>> sorry I am not perferct when I type in english. So does it mean that what
>> I say is non sense...
>
> No.  I wasn't sure what you were trying to say.  However, even without the
> spelling and grammatical errors (which I usually ignore since English is
> not your primary language), you're still spouting nonsense.
>

allways trying to win an argument with lies.. poor sob..


>> Some here are perferct in english, but they still make no sense at all..
>
> I'm sure you speak perfect French but your post was nonsense all the same.
>

what ever you say.. its all the same shit comming from you.

>> ok and the OP is talking about using REGULAR doorbell now tell me what
>> type of controller do you use with that?
>
> The gentleman mentioned a "key system" in the first post.  If by that he
> meant that he originally considered connecting it to his telephones I
> would suggest a Doorbell Fon with a module to trigger the regular doorbell
> as well.  OTOH, if he only wants to trigger the doorbell, he could connect
> a relay module. Many modern doorbells are DC operated.  They draw minimal
> current -- typically less than 100 milliamps -- at 12 VDC.  Others which
> still use AC current. Common doorbell transformers are rated at 10 Watts
> and 12 Volts.  You can get them with as much as 30 Watts at 24 Volts but
> those are rarely used except in very large homes with multiple chimes and
> long wire runs.  The OP gave no indication his home was exceptionally
> large and he said nothing about multiple chime units.
>>

the OP talked that he was planning on using a key system but got back on his
decision and now will use a doorbell... If i lack on writing skill, you do
lack on reading and understanding..




>> If the gentleman intends to connect nothing but the chime, the
>> transformer and a button, he will make a splice in the homerun closet.
>> That's a simple procedure that any DIYer can handle without need of a
>> paid professional.
>
>> NO, he is not, the code say 16 gauge for normal doorbell operation, if he
>> doesnt respect that, he is not doing it properly.
>
> The code?  What chapter and verse of which code?  I don't know about
> Canada but most doorbell wiring in the USA is 18 gauge.  Modern, low
> current doorbells can use 20 gauge.  The OP is considering usaing CAT5,
> which consists of 8 strands of 22 gauge cable.  Wiring that into 2 strands
> will more than handle the current and will give better than 18-gauge.
>

ok now its 18, when it was 16... lies lies lies.. poor sob


>> 16 gauge wire info...
>> [snip]

why snip? cause it was the proof that i was right..

>> And now for 24 gauge...
>> [snip]
>
> Lets make it simpler.
>
> 18 gauge (the stuff electricians use all over the USA) has a resistance of
> about 6 Ohms per 100 ft.  4 strands of 22 gauge CAT5 cable wired together
> will have a resistance of roughly 4 Ohms per 100 ft.  In short, the CAT5
> he has will be safer than 18 gauge and virtually identical to 16 gauge
> (which almost no one uses for doorbells).  Got it?
>

Again trying to pull over with half true.. not even worth replying.. tyhe OP
no the facts i am sure he will react to it..


>> if he feed the normal transformer on a cat5e cable there is a BIG
>> probability of overcharging the wiring...
>
> Uh, no.  There is not.
>

Uh, yup. there is.. your too dumb to see it..