Re: Door Bell Install Via Homerun Closet

["petem" <petem001@xxxxxxxxx>]

"Robert L Bass" <Sales@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> a écrit dans le message de
groupe de discussion : F4KdnUNtN5POdCXXnZ2dnUVZ_uednZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> "Petem" wrote:
>>
>> You forgot to had:
>
> Had???
>


sorry I am not perferct when I type in english. So does it mean that what I
say is non sense...Some here are perferct in english, but they still make no
sense at all..


>> What I did do is run a four pair
>> Cat5e from the front doorbell to the homerun closet as well as a four
>> pair Cat5e from the area where the chime would be mounted to the homerun
>> closet
>
> Right.  The controller has to go in the homerun closet.  The other devices
> are each attached to the other end of a direct cable run from there.  How
> does this become a mid-point splice in the cable?  Even if it were so
> (which it is not), splicing is easy.
>

ok and the OP is talking about using REGULAR doorbell now tell me what type
of controller do you use with that?


>> then he wrote:
>>
>> (one from the doorbell and one from the chime go to the transformer,
>> that will be mounted in the homerun closet.
>>
>> if that is not a mid run jonction, I wonder what it is..
>
> Well, commence wondering then because it's not.
>

Even with the facts in front of you, you just cant understand simple
circuitry.. good , real good...

>>>> so there is no need to answer anything else comming from you, as
>>>> allways you are talking about anything with out knowing..
>>>
>>> You are turning a disagreement about a technical issue into personal
>>> nastiness.  Feel free not to answer when I post if that suits you.
>>> Either way, you're wrong about what is being done and you're wrong about
>>> needing an electrician (or any other "professional" installer) to hook
>>> up a simple, low current device such as the OP intends.
>>
>> Nope I just posted that you didnt even read the OP and now you TRY to go
>> away with part of his original post.. typical of you..
>
> Show me where what I said was incorrect and I'll bow in utmost respect.
> So far it appears you either don't understand what the OP said, what I am
> saying, basic cabling requirements or all of the above.
>

You said there is no jonction, there is, you say that I was pushing for a
pro installation when I only pointed to asking an electrician about the
code.
I pointed posibility of mistake a home owner could do and you try to make me
say I said that every one here are not fit to connect wiring.

you twist facts you dont even know what is a type 1 or type 2 transfo, and
you have not read the OP before i pointed it to you..


>> Never said that he HAD to use an electrician,. just pointed that he
>> should ASK one to be sure he comply with code...
>
> To which I replied, "Nonsense!"
>

wich is typical of you..But still , its nonsense, asking for info will never
be nonsense, telling poeple not to is the worst advice someone could give.

>> and that if he doesnt comply change the wiring and do it properly..
>
> He's doing it properly.  The only issue is whether the cable is of
> sufficient gauge to handle the current.  Normal CAT5 will do just fine.
>

NO, he is not, the code say 16 gauge for normal doorbell operation, if he
doesnt respect that, he is not doing it properly.

>> the one that have an agenda here is you.. go back to alarm and leave real
>> answer to the one that know..
>
> That's kind of rude, don't you think?  At any rate, since I'm in the
> process of getting out of the business I've no agenda at all.  Like you, I
> posted to offer advice to the OP.  We simply disagree about what
> constitutes good advice.
>

Now tell me who is the one that came back telling me all I said was wrong..
That's kind of rude no?

You are not in the process of getting out of the trade, you never been in
the trade, you were a salesman, a web salesman...

You posted advice about not asking for information at someone that know what
need to be done.. GRRRRRRReat advice!!

Now you want to talk facts, here there are...

from:

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

16 gauge wire info

diameter in inch 0.0508 , diameter in milileter 1.29032,  ohms per 100 ft
4.016  Ohms per km 13.17248 max amp for chassis wiring 22 Maximum amps for
power transmission 3.7 Maximum frequency for 100% skin depth for solid
conductor copper11 k Hz


And now for 24 gauge

diameter in inch 0.0201 , diameter in milileter 0.51054,  ohms per 100 ft
25.67  Ohms per km 84.1976 max amp for chassis wiring 3.5 Maximum amps for
power transmission 0.577 Maximum frequency for 100% skin depth for solid
conductor copper 68 k Hz

now take the max amp for 16, and take the one for 24.. any of the 2 data,
how on earth can 4 time 3.5 can make as much as 22...do the same with the
other data, .577 *4 cant make as much or more then 3.7 amp...

if he feed the normal transformer on a cat5e cable there is a BIG
probability of overcharging the wiring, now just think that this do happen
close to the jonction in the homerun closet where the OP will install the
transfo and connect the device to the 2 wire to the wire comming from the
transfo (making a damn splice or jonction) what will happen to the
wire?????it will turn into a heater...

now go get a life.. oups! you cant!