Re: Andersen 400 Series Security contacts

["Crash Gordon" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Not really problems...just tedious and time consuming.

It depends on where the switch is. If I put the switch on the bottom (this
is during framing) I drill the hole, then close the window and latch it.
Then I have a special 12" long skinny screwdriver (I call it my mafia
screwdriver) which I put up through the hole and mark the bottom of the
closed window. I don't drill any of these windows for magnets anymore - I
only use the super donut magnets...more expensive but it's quicker and you
get a wider more forgiving gap. You know the kids never latch those windows
correctly and it takes nothing to pop open enough for a false.

When I can't do it as above I'll use masking tape to line up (tedious).

For door switches I have a screwdriver (same skinny one but shorter) that I
bent, ground down a little and use to line up recessed switches and
magnets...close the door, stick the screwdriver in to where the switch is
and give a little twist..this marks the door for mag placement.

Noobs reading this...you can send me 100 bucks for the tip of the day.




"Jim" <alarminex@xxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1186595992.452034.122670@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
| On Aug 6, 11:47?pm, "Crash Gordon" <webmas...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
| wrote:
| > I wouldn't ever use a spade bit on an expensive window...infact I've
stopped
| > using 3/8" spade bits for press fit contacts altogether...no matter how
| > careful you are the hole is always slightly too big for the switch.
| >
| > I like the split tip or the split brad point bits the best. I use the
spades
| > for rough work and big ship augers for new construction rough-ins.
| >
|
| Hey Crash,
|
| I just remembered you said something early in the thread about
| problems centering magnets and recessed switches.
|
| How do "you" do that?
|