Re: Andersen 400 Series Security contacts

[Jim <alarminex@xxxxxxx>]

On Aug 6, 12:02?am, "Crash Gordon" <webmas...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
> No doesn't help, makes it harder for you if you want to do tops and
> bottoms...you'll have to use recessed contacts...run wires to top and
> bottom...not hit any internal mechanisms...get switch/contact alignments
> just right so you don't have falses (which you will if the client leaves the
> window unlatched and the top window slides down.
>
> Anderson Types...moderate nightmare
> Anderson Types Double Hung...shoot yourself then quadruple your labor
> charge.
>
> Have fun man...sheesh I hate dem things.
>
> Oh yeah...buy new drill bits, don't use old bits.
>
Here's a little hint about drilling. I learned it from working on
fiberglass, when doing repairs and such on the boat.

When drilling into fiberglass, if you start drilling in the forward
direction, the gel coat will splinter and the edges of the drilled
hole will chip away, leaving the undercoat exposed. The cure is to
start the hole by running the bit in reverse, making an indentation
the full diameter of the bit, in the gel coat first.

When drilling into vinyl, put your drill in reverse and press into the
vinyl making an indentation with the point of the bit. Stop the drill.
Put it in forward and at a slow speed, start drilling the vinyl. Don't
press hard.

You'll notice that the bit doesn't grab and pull the vinyl out making
that little "pimple" that causes you not to be able mount anything
flat against the surface.

Bass has already stolen this, so it doesn't matter.

It's really too bad he's such a fucking ass hole.