Re: Andersen 400 Series Security contacts

["Buggs" <thatsallfolksl@xxxxxxxxx>]

Jim wrote:
> On Aug 6, 12:02?am, "Crash Gordon" <webmas...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>> No doesn't help, makes it harder for you if you want to do tops and
>> bottoms...you'll have to use recessed contacts...run wires to top and
>> bottom...not hit any internal mechanisms...get switch/contact
>> alignments just right so you don't have falses (which you will if
>> the client leaves the window unlatched and the top window slides
>> down.
>>
>> Anderson Types...moderate nightmare
>> Anderson Types Double Hung...shoot yourself then quadruple your labor
>> charge.
>>
>> Have fun man...sheesh I hate dem things.
>>
>> Oh yeah...buy new drill bits, don't use old bits.
>>
> Here's a little hint about drilling. I learned it from working on
> fiberglass, when doing repairs and such on the boat.
>
> When drilling into fiberglass, if you start drilling in the forward
> direction, the gel coat will splinter and the edges of the drilled
> hole will chip away, leaving the undercoat exposed. The cure is to
> start the hole by running the bit in reverse, making an indentation
> the full diameter of the bit, in the gel coat first.
>
> When drilling into vinyl, put your drill in reverse and press into the
> vinyl making an indentation with the point of the bit. Stop the drill.
> Put it in forward and at a slow speed, start drilling the vinyl. Don't
> press hard.
>
> You'll notice that the bit doesn't grab and pull the vinyl out making
> that little "pimple" that causes you not to be able mount anything
> flat against the surface.
>
> Bass has already stolen this, so it doesn't matter.
>
> It's really too bad he's such a fucking ass hole.

Or you can just use a sharp brad point or spade bit and do it right the
first time.
js