Re: Andersen 400 Series Security contacts

["Crash Gordon" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I know I remember this discussion before and have since used your reverse
drill trick and it works great. I also use painters masking tape too.



--

Rob Giordano
Microsoft MVP - FrontPage





"Jim" <alarminex@xxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1186452542.854372.290470@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
| On Aug 6, 12:02?am, "Crash Gordon" <webmas...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
| wrote:
| > No doesn't help, makes it harder for you if you want to do tops and
| > bottoms...you'll have to use recessed contacts...run wires to top and
| > bottom...not hit any internal mechanisms...get switch/contact alignments
| > just right so you don't have falses (which you will if the client leaves
the
| > window unlatched and the top window slides down.
| >
| > Anderson Types...moderate nightmare
| > Anderson Types Double Hung...shoot yourself then quadruple your labor
| > charge.
| >
| > Have fun man...sheesh I hate dem things.
| >
| > Oh yeah...buy new drill bits, don't use old bits.
| >
| Here's a little hint about drilling. I learned it from working on
| fiberglass, when doing repairs and such on the boat.
|
| When drilling into fiberglass, if you start drilling in the forward
| direction, the gel coat will splinter and the edges of the drilled
| hole will chip away, leaving the undercoat exposed. The cure is to
| start the hole by running the bit in reverse, making an indentation
| the full diameter of the bit, in the gel coat first.
|
| When drilling into vinyl, put your drill in reverse and press into the
| vinyl making an indentation with the point of the bit. Stop the drill.
| Put it in forward and at a slow speed, start drilling the vinyl. Don't
| press hard.
|
| You'll notice that the bit doesn't grab and pull the vinyl out making
| that little "pimple" that causes you not to be able mount anything
| flat against the surface.
|
| Bass has already stolen this, so it doesn't matter.
|
| It's really too bad he's such a fucking ass hole.
|