Re: Andersen 400 Series Security contacts

["Robert L Bass" <RobertLBass@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

> Not really problems...just tedious and time consuming.
>
> It depends on where the switch is. If I put the switch on the bottom (this
> is during framing) I drill the hole, then close the window and latch it.
> Then I have a special 12" long skinny screwdriver (I call it my mafia
> screwdriver) which I put up through the hole and mark the bottom of the
> closed window. I don't drill any of these windows for magnets anymore - I
> only use the super donut magnets...more expensive but it's quicker and you
> get a wider more forgiving gap. You know the kids never latch those windows
> correctly and it takes nothing to pop open enough for a false.
>
> When I can't do it as above I'll use masking tape to line up (tedious).

Nex time try it this way:

1. Open the window just a crack. Use a sharp #2 pencil
to make a tiny tic mark on the sash and the window sill.

2. At the tic mark half the thickness of the sash out
from the stool drill down for the sensor.

3. Raise the sash.  Even with the mark use a razor
knife or Exacto to cut through the insulation strip and
spread it out a bit.  Insert a GRI MM-25 or MM-45
magnet in the kerf.  Touch the edges of the strip
with silicone.

4. Use the eraser to remove the tiny pencil marks.

Andersen won't warranty a windo if you drill the sash
but we never had an issue doing it this way.  Some
modern windows have a recess on the bottom large
enough to fit one of these tiny "rare earth" magnets
without drilling or cutting anything.

> For door switches I have a screwdriver (same skinny
> one but shorter) that I bent, ground down a little and
> use to line up recessed switches and magnets...

I always used a pencil to mark the door and frame. On
new construction you can place the sensor anywhere
on the knob side or close to it on the top of the door.
On existing homes with basements I'd drill a horizontal
3/8" hole in the frame about 2" above the threshold
on the knob side.  Then I'd slip a 1/4" x 16" feeler bit
into the hole and drill down at a compound angle to
come out in the basement.  Done right the sensor is
almost invisible.  If the door frame was painted white
I'd touch up the hole with silicone.  If it's stained wood
use matching wood putty (available at HD in assorted
shades).

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
941-925-8650
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
=============================>