Re: Andersen 400 Series Security contacts

["Crash Gordon" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I don't put door switches at the tops of the doors anymore if I can help it.

For one thing they're harder to install & repair up high, but more because
wooden doors warp in the sun out here which cause problems with magnet
alignment.

I try to put them down on the opening side of the door either a 12 in. above
or below the door lock/latch.




"Robert L Bass" <RobertLBass@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:OgEui.5212$zg3.3675@xxxxxxxxxxx
|> Not really problems...just tedious and time consuming.
| >
| > It depends on where the switch is. If I put the switch on the bottom
(this
| > is during framing) I drill the hole, then close the window and latch it.
| > Then I have a special 12" long skinny screwdriver (I call it my mafia
| > screwdriver) which I put up through the hole and mark the bottom of the
| > closed window. I don't drill any of these windows for magnets anymore -
I
| > only use the super donut magnets...more expensive but it's quicker and
you
| > get a wider more forgiving gap. You know the kids never latch those
windows
| > correctly and it takes nothing to pop open enough for a false.
| >
| > When I can't do it as above I'll use masking tape to line up (tedious).
|
| Nex time try it this way:
|
| 1. Open the window just a crack. Use a sharp #2 pencil
| to make a tiny tic mark on the sash and the window sill.
|
| 2. At the tic mark half the thickness of the sash out
| from the stool drill down for the sensor.
|
| 3. Raise the sash.  Even with the mark use a razor
| knife or Exacto to cut through the insulation strip and
| spread it out a bit.  Insert a GRI MM-25 or MM-45
| magnet in the kerf.  Touch the edges of the strip
| with silicone.
|
| 4. Use the eraser to remove the tiny pencil marks.
|
| Andersen won't warranty a windo if you drill the sash
| but we never had an issue doing it this way.  Some
| modern windows have a recess on the bottom large
| enough to fit one of these tiny "rare earth" magnets
| without drilling or cutting anything.
|
| > For door switches I have a screwdriver (same skinny
| > one but shorter) that I bent, ground down a little and
| > use to line up recessed switches and magnets...
|
| I always used a pencil to mark the door and frame. On
| new construction you can place the sensor anywhere
| on the knob side or close to it on the top of the door.
| On existing homes with basements I'd drill a horizontal
| 3/8" hole in the frame about 2" above the threshold
| on the knob side.  Then I'd slip a 1/4" x 16" feeler bit
| into the hole and drill down at a compound angle to
| come out in the basement.  Done right the sensor is
| almost invisible.  If the door frame was painted white
| I'd touch up the hole with silicone.  If it's stained wood
| use matching wood putty (available at HD in assorted
| shades).
|
| --
|
| Regards,
| Robert L Bass
|
| =============================>
| Bass Home Electronics
| 941-925-8650
| 4883 Fallcrest Circle
| Sarasota · Florida · 34233
| http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
| =============================>
|