Re: Motion Sensor Light for Front Entrance

["Robert Green" <robert_green1963@xxxxxxxxx>]

"Art Todesco" <actodesco@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:i6akql$f8g$1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> On 9/9/2010 12:43 AM, Robert Green wrote:
> > "Mark Lloyd"<mlloyd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>  wrote in message
> > news:t9Xho.2160$MP1.1278@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> [snip]
> >>
> >>> But not another CFL load!
> >>
> >> Right. The setup in my bedroom is a lamp with 100W CFL and a TV (I got
a
> >> small Visio LCD TV that is not "power amnesiac" (comes on with power))
> >
> > The Green Police are making those non-amnesiac devices harder to find.
My
> > RCA TV is one, and when you turn it back on with the IR after shutting
it
> > down via X-10 it covers the lower half of the screen with a whiny
warning
> > about the clock losing its settings.  Hey, you're a TV, not a clock!!!!
> > STFU. (-:
> >
> >> connected to a receptacle module (SR227) which does not have "local
> >> control" and the TV provides enough load.
> >
> > "Flashing" is also dependent on the type of lamp.  I have some GE's that
> > don't flash but that are X-10 signal suckers and some N:Vision (HD
brand)
> > bulbs that flash like demented fireflies.  X-10 needs to make a CFL
friendly
> > control module.
> >
> >> [snip[
> >>
> >>> OK - just checked with X-10's live support.  They are still pushing
> >>> AM466 modules which flash and relight like crazy!  The actually called
> >>> me on the phone (sales, not techie) sent me three useless links, said
it
> >>> was "noise on the line" (tell that to three different X-10 meters I
own
> >>> that say "no noise") and were pleasant, friendly and yet totally
> >>> unhelpful in solving the flashing problem.
> >>
> >> I seldom find "customer service" to be helpful, but at least you got
> >> someone you could talk to. I just had a really bad experience with a
> >> wireless (CDMA) broadband carrier, where the person ignored 90% of what
I
> >> said.
> >
> > I've found if you're even moderately knowledgeable about a product it
takes
> > two escalations to get someone who's not reading from an IF THEN ELSE
chart
> > and who can actually troubleshoot.  X-10's tech support came in as
"Unknown
> > name/Unknown number" on caller ID, FWIW.  Once I heard her speaking I
knew I
> > was not going to get a good answer.  I hope I don't regret giving them
my
> > phone number.
> >
> > --
> > Bobby G.
> >
> Two possibilities here:
> I have a whole load of the Universal
> Modules, which I used in a previous
> life, for Halloween animation.  I
> modified the UM to remove the screw
> terminals and I then added a 1 foot
> pigtail with a female receptacle.
> Actually, it was cut off from an
> extension cord, so there were 3 outlets.
>   The wire went into the place where the
> screws were, formerly.  I've read that
> the contacts are rated for line voltage,
> but because of the exposed screw
> terminals, the unit was only rated for
> low voltage.  Anyway, as this is just a
> plain make contact in series with the
> load, it works good on the CFLs that
> where blinking with the module off.  I
> am now presently using this on in my
> living room.  One sort-of problem, these
> modules click REAL LOUD.

I have a bunch of UM's, and they do indeed clack, but I am too much of a
pussy to pass 110VAC through a contact spec'ed for 33VAC.  You're proving
that it can be done.  I'm saying "Hey, X-10, why are you forcing people like
Art to do your design engineering for you?"

> The 2nd possibility is regular
> lamp/appliance module modification.  I
> have seen modifications that make a lamp
> module into a click-free appliance
> module.  One uses a solid state relay.
> The other uses some other parts.  These
> modification eliminate the sense current
> completely.  Google click free or quiet
> module modifications.

The SSR mode looked interesting, but I am reluctant to do much more than
snip a wire or cut a surface trace.  X-10's final solution was to use a 7W
nightlight to counteract the flashback of a bulb I am using to saving
electricity.  Add in the 4 watts for the X-10 module and another 4 watts for
the controller and the economics start to sour.  A fully equipped X-10 house
draws considerable standby current.  I remember measuring mine at close to
400 watts.  In a lot of places, the flashing hardly matters and it's
actually the most efficient low leveling night lighting you can get (if
you're not epileptic).  I''ve tried a lot of the mods, and while they do
eliminate the local control, they don't stop the current trickle!!!!!

The twin bulb 40W fixture in the workshop finally failed so I replaced it
with a new, high eff. unit.  Now it flashes with the same intensity as
nearby lightning does.  Surprisingly, you can navigate quite easily if you
move slowly.  More than enough light to see a black cat sleeping on a dark
rug.  Seeing a white dog is no problem.  Low SAF and neighbor approval
factor, though.  Went back to a manual switch (shudder) for the time being.

--
Bobby G.