Re: Motion Sensor Light for Front Entrance

[Art Todesco <actodesco@xxxxxxxxx>]

On 9/9/2010 12:43 AM, Robert Green wrote:
> "Mark Lloyd"<mlloyd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>  wrote in message
> news:t9Xho.2160$MP1.1278@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> [snip]
>>
>>> But not another CFL load!
>>
>> Right. The setup in my bedroom is a lamp with 100W CFL and a TV (I got a
>> small Visio LCD TV that is not "power amnesiac" (comes on with power))
>
> The Green Police are making those non-amnesiac devices harder to find.  My
> RCA TV is one, and when you turn it back on with the IR after shutting it
> down via X-10 it covers the lower half of the screen with a whiny warning
> about the clock losing its settings.  Hey, you're a TV, not a clock!!!!
> STFU. (-:
>
>> connected to a receptacle module (SR227) which does not have "local
>> control" and the TV provides enough load.
>
> "Flashing" is also dependent on the type of lamp.  I have some GE's that
> don't flash but that are X-10 signal suckers and some N:Vision (HD brand)
> bulbs that flash like demented fireflies.  X-10 needs to make a CFL friendly
> control module.
>
>> [snip[
>>
>>> OK - just checked with X-10's live support.  They are still pushing
>>> AM466 modules which flash and relight like crazy!  The actually called
>>> me on the phone (sales, not techie) sent me three useless links, said it
>>> was "noise on the line" (tell that to three different X-10 meters I own
>>> that say "no noise") and were pleasant, friendly and yet totally
>>> unhelpful in solving the flashing problem.
>>
>> I seldom find "customer service" to be helpful, but at least you got
>> someone you could talk to. I just had a really bad experience with a
>> wireless (CDMA) broadband carrier, where the person ignored 90% of what I
>> said.
>
> I've found if you're even moderately knowledgeable about a product it takes
> two escalations to get someone who's not reading from an IF THEN ELSE chart
> and who can actually troubleshoot.  X-10's tech support came in as "Unknown
> name/Unknown number" on caller ID, FWIW.  Once I heard her speaking I knew I
> was not going to get a good answer.  I hope I don't regret giving them my
> phone number.
>
> --
> Bobby G.
>
Two possibilities here:
I have a whole load of the Universal
Modules, which I used in a previous
life, for Halloween animation.  I
modified the UM to remove the screw
terminals and I then added a 1 foot
pigtail with a female receptacle.
Actually, it was cut off from an
extension cord, so there were 3 outlets.
  The wire went into the place where the
screws were, formerly.  I've read that
the contacts are rated for line voltage,
but because of the exposed screw
terminals, the unit was only rated for
low voltage.  Anyway, as this is just a
plain make contact in series with the
load, it works good on the CFLs that
where blinking with the module off.  I
am now presently using this on in my
living room.  One sort-of problem, these
modules click REAL LOUD.

The 2nd possibility is regular
lamp/appliance module modification.  I
have seen modifications that make a lamp
module into a click-free appliance
module.  One uses a solid state relay.
The other uses some other parts.  These
modification eliminate the sense current
completely.  Google click free or quiet
module modifications.