Re: Motion Sensor Light for Front Entrance

[Art Todesco <actodesco@xxxxxxxxx>]

On 9/9/2010 7:30 PM, Robert Green wrote:
> "Art Todesco"<actodesco@xxxxxxxxx>  wrote in message
> news:i6akql$f8g$1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> On 9/9/2010 12:43 AM, Robert Green wrote:
>>> "Mark Lloyd"<mlloyd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>   wrote in message
>>> news:t9Xho.2160$MP1.1278@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> [snip]
>>>>
>>>>> But not another CFL load!
>>>>
>>>> Right. The setup in my bedroom is a lamp with 100W CFL and a TV (I got
> a
>>>> small Visio LCD TV that is not "power amnesiac" (comes on with power))
>>>
>>> The Green Police are making those non-amnesiac devices harder to find.
> My
>>> RCA TV is one, and when you turn it back on with the IR after shutting
> it
>>> down via X-10 it covers the lower half of the screen with a whiny
> warning
>>> about the clock losing its settings.  Hey, you're a TV, not a clock!!!!
>>> STFU. (-:
>>>
>>>> connected to a receptacle module (SR227) which does not have "local
>>>> control" and the TV provides enough load.
>>>
>>> "Flashing" is also dependent on the type of lamp.  I have some GE's that
>>> don't flash but that are X-10 signal suckers and some N:Vision (HD
> brand)
>>> bulbs that flash like demented fireflies.  X-10 needs to make a CFL
> friendly
>>> control module.
>>>
>>>> [snip[
>>>>
>>>>> OK - just checked with X-10's live support.  They are still pushing
>>>>> AM466 modules which flash and relight like crazy!  The actually called
>>>>> me on the phone (sales, not techie) sent me three useless links, said
> it
>>>>> was "noise on the line" (tell that to three different X-10 meters I
> own
>>>>> that say "no noise") and were pleasant, friendly and yet totally
>>>>> unhelpful in solving the flashing problem.
>>>>
>>>> I seldom find "customer service" to be helpful, but at least you got
>>>> someone you could talk to. I just had a really bad experience with a
>>>> wireless (CDMA) broadband carrier, where the person ignored 90% of what
> I
>>>> said.
>>>
>>> I've found if you're even moderately knowledgeable about a product it
> takes
>>> two escalations to get someone who's not reading from an IF THEN ELSE
> chart
>>> and who can actually troubleshoot.  X-10's tech support came in as
> "Unknown
>>> name/Unknown number" on caller ID, FWIW.  Once I heard her speaking I
> knew I
>>> was not going to get a good answer.  I hope I don't regret giving them
> my
>>> phone number.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Bobby G.
>>>
>> Two possibilities here:
>> I have a whole load of the Universal
>> Modules, which I used in a previous
>> life, for Halloween animation.  I
>> modified the UM to remove the screw
>> terminals and I then added a 1 foot
>> pigtail with a female receptacle.
>> Actually, it was cut off from an
>> extension cord, so there were 3 outlets.
>>    The wire went into the place where the
>> screws were, formerly.  I've read that
>> the contacts are rated for line voltage,
>> but because of the exposed screw
>> terminals, the unit was only rated for
>> low voltage.  Anyway, as this is just a
>> plain make contact in series with the
>> load, it works good on the CFLs that
>> where blinking with the module off.  I
>> am now presently using this on in my
>> living room.  One sort-of problem, these
>> modules click REAL LOUD.
>
> I have a bunch of UM's, and they do indeed clack, but I am too much of a
> pussy to pass 110VAC through a contact spec'ed for 33VAC.  You're proving
> that it can be done.  I'm saying "Hey, X-10, why are you forcing people like
> Art to do your design engineering for you?"
>
>> The 2nd possibility is regular
>> lamp/appliance module modification.  I
>> have seen modifications that make a lamp
>> module into a click-free appliance
>> module.  One uses a solid state relay.
>> The other uses some other parts.  These
>> modification eliminate the sense current
>> completely.  Google click free or quiet
>> module modifications.
>
> The SSR mode looked interesting, but I am reluctant to do much more than
> snip a wire or cut a surface trace.  X-10's final solution was to use a 7W
> nightlight to counteract the flashback of a bulb I am using to saving
> electricity.  Add in the 4 watts for the X-10 module and another 4 watts for
> the controller and the economics start to sour.  A fully equipped X-10 house
> draws considerable standby current.  I remember measuring mine at close to
> 400 watts.  In a lot of places, the flashing hardly matters and it's
> actually the most efficient low leveling night lighting you can get (if
> you're not epileptic).  I''ve tried a lot of the mods, and while they do
> eliminate the local control, they don't stop the current trickle!!!!!
>
> The twin bulb 40W fixture in the workshop finally failed so I replaced it
> with a new, high eff. unit.  Now it flashes with the same intensity as
> nearby lightning does.  Surprisingly, you can navigate quite easily if you
> move slowly.  More than enough light to see a black cat sleeping on a dark
> rug.  Seeing a white dog is no problem.  Low SAF and neighbor approval
> factor, though.  Went back to a manual switch (shudder) for the time being.
>
> --
> Bobby G.
>
As for the UM, yes the click is horrible
... worse than the generic appliance
module.   I'm not sure where I found it,
but, someone reported that the relay
contacts were actually rated at line
voltage.  The exposed screw terminal are
what actually made them put a spec of
33VAC on the module.  As you said, I'm
proof that it works but I don't have any
hard documentation showing the contact
rating.

Also, when you said your house had an
X10 standby load of 400 watts, I can't
see how.  I am assuming you mean from
modules and such.  Today I connected 8
generic lamp modules to a Kill-A-Watt
unit.  The 8th module made the display
go from 1 watt to 2 watts.