Re: is it possible for x10 signal bridge to fail?

["Chip Orange" <acorange@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

"Robert Green" <ROBERT_GREEN1963@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:LoKdneVOj_bxG2vfRVn-2A@xxxxxxxxxx
> "Chip Orange" <acorange@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>
> <stuff snipped>
>
>> >  What kind of X-10 gear do you have (makes and models)?
>>
>> Nothing unusual; an HAI transmitter, and a mix of switches and outlets
> from
>> PCS and Leviton.
>
> That's enough devices from enough different manufacturer's that I would
> definitely go the plug-in route with a repeater/coupler first.
>
> If that restores you to normal, spend the money you saved on a sparky by
> buying the Elk ESM-1 meter for X-10 - it's about $60 or so.  If you do run
> into a bad signal sucker in the house, it will save you hours of
> frustration
> trying to figure out which appliance is the problem.   I started with the
> Elk and moved up the Monterey PLSA (about $240 or so) because I wanted a
> greater level of detail than the Elk's LED bargraph display provided.
> Either one is a necessity in the modern world of UPSs, CF bulbs and
> transformless wall warts.  Someday Dave Houston will build a PLSA that
> puts
> all others to shame (<wink> to DH) but until then, do consider a meter of
> some sort.  They come in all prices ranges but the Elk's the best of the
> cheapest.
>
>> Thanks for the suggestion, I think I'll try out the device you mentioned,
>> along with some filters on the UPSs and surge protectors.
>
> For the cost of three filters, consider buying a meter before filtering
> stuff just by "device class."  For every UPS, wall wart and fluorescent
> bulb
> I have that's a signal sucker or noisemaker, I have at least 4 other
> devices
> of the same type that are not.  That means you have a one in five chance
> of
> filtering the right device on the first shot.
>
> Believe me, there's a definite "hunter psyche" in all of us and when you
> use
> the meter to locate a problem device you'll feel just like the first
> caveman
> to dig a pit to catch dinner.  It's a profound "gotcha!" sort of
> experience.
> For me, doing X-10 without a meter is like putting up shelves without a
> studfinder.  You can do it, but . . .
>
>> combo will get me back to 100% as the house has grown to 60 or so
>> devices,
>> so we've gotten quite used to it all working.
>
> Even more reason to get a meter.  I didn't know until I started reading
> hear
> that every X-10 device that transmits is also a signal sucker.  It's not
> much of a loss, but it accumulates.  It's why I recommend
> coupler/repeaters
> to anyone with over 10 or so devices.
>
>> thanks again,
>
> You're welcome!  (BTW, I have no financial or other interest in any meter
> makers or sellers.  I am just trying to save people the frustration I went
> through when I first got into X-10.  If you read through Google, you'll
> find
> I just hated X-10 when I got here but the posts of Dave H, Dan L, Bruce R
> and others convinced me that X-10 works well if you have a meter and use
> it
> wisely to filter what needs filtering. Just today I found another sucker:
> A
> GE CF bulb that's listed as 26W FLE26HT3/2/SW drops the X-10 signal on
> it's
> branch from .20 to .10 and that's close the limit of reliable operation -
> OK
> meter sermon over! <g> )
>
> --
> Bobby G.
>
>
>

Thanks Bobby.

My installer didn't have a meter (he's my sparky who's expanded his business
line), and so I didn't know there was one available in the consumer range).
I haven't seen him in many years, and have learned to deal with many
situations on my own, so I'll take your advice and go to find an Elk.

BTW, the HAI I'm still using is the one they made 11 years ago (the 1503 V
II).  Pretty good recommendation for HAI equipment, although someday I
really will get that installer back to upgrade to an Omni/pro II.

Thanks for all your advice,

Chip