Re: X-10 Mister House Motion sensor problems

[Jim Baber <jim@xxxxxxxxx>]

Robert Green wrote:

>"Marc F Hult" <MFHult@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>
>>>stuff snipped>
>>>
>> The X-10 stuff is quick enough if you position the
>>
>>
>>>sensor and transceiver close to each other and close to the load.
>>>
>>>
>>In my experience, X-10 is almost never quick enough if the system needs to
>>dim instead of toggle ON-OFF. And if you get up at 3AM , who wants the
>>lights to go on suddenly at 100% bright?
>>
>>
>
>That's an easy one.  Just get a two-way wall switch or module.  They'll
>remember the state last dimmed to and without any of the flash problems.
>
>But that's not and ideal solution.  I'm working on a more elegant one for my
>Mom and Dad who need more than a dimmed bulb hallway bulb.  I am looking at
>installing LED or similar "carpet lights" that you see in theaters and
>airplanes.  It's clear that in low light, with dark adapted-eyes, a series
>of small lamps illuminating the pathway is the proper way to go.
>
I agree.

>Those on
>one unit code, the regular lights on another and a way to tell when it's
>dark or light and it's done.  It's not a challenge for X-10 because there's
>no dimming involved.  They come on when they sense motion, they go off after
>a while or when the bed sensor says "back in bed."
>
>
Well I wouldn't be quite so quick to make that assumption.

For years I have used a X-10 Appliance module to turn my Christmas
tree's sub miniature light strings on and off successfully.  I did this
so I did not have to get down on the floor to plug or unplug them.  I
don't have a switched outlet within 30 feet.  I changed over to the LED
strings last Christmas, to save wattage and the X10 appliance would not
turn off the 5 strings of 50 each bulbs. They just dimmed about 50%.

Same problem as CFL lights, the 6 strings only draw 42 W total at full
brightness.  The leakage current the X10 module uses to test if an
appliance is turned on or off, is enough to give about 50 % of the
normal light from all of the LED lights.  I used them anyway and just
accepted the daily 0.67 kWh * $0.08199/kWh cost = $0.05513 cost of
operation each day.

>I'm probably going to end up using Christmas lights because I love COTS
>solutions and there's nothing cheaper or that requires less labor.
>Concealing them artfully will be the only issue.
>
>
I am still using 1 string of 35 white LED christmas bulbs to illuminate
a path in our house. Our dog has decided that path  is his bed.  He is
an 120 pound Akita, and does a damn good job of blocking that path from
our bedroom to one of the bathrooms.  Unfortunately he is mostly the
same color as the carpet, a very sound sleeper, and while he does not
seem to object to being stepped on, neither my wife nor I care to fall
over him.

Ergo, we needed a night light for the whole hall, and the LEDs hung on
adhesive cup hooks at the ceiling provide an unobtrusive ghostly light.
I am planning to drop the existing cornice trim about a half an inch and
then lay the light string behind the cornice and put a outlet and J-box
at one end. I will wire that to an existing attic light switch and
replace the existing attic lights with CFLs at the same time. (At least
I will know if someone has left the attic lights on!)
--

Jim Baber
Email jim@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
1350 W Mesa Ave.
Fresno CA, 93711
(559) 435-9068
(559) 905-2204 (Verizon IN cellphone (to other Verizon IN accounts))
See 10kW grid tied solar system at "http://www.baber.org/solarpanels.jpg";
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