Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!

["Brown, Andy [Infrastructure]" <AndyB@xxxxxxx>]

What if the existing switch is a dimmer?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Kiff, Graham [SMTP:Graham.Kiff@xxxxxxx]
> Sent:	Monday, January 10, 2000 3:12 PM
> To:	'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
> Subject:	[ukha_d] Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!
>
> Will the LD10 work with the existing wall switch but without diming
> capability (ie can only be dimmed via X10 commands)
>
> Graham Kiff
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:	adrian.lucas@xxxxxxx [SMTP:adrian.lucas@xxxxxxx]
> > Sent:	10 January 2000 15:07
> > To:	ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > Subject:	[ukha_d] Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!
> >
> > Unless the wring in your house is very old, you should have Live
and
> > Neutral available at every ceiling rose.
> >  They are usually fed from the consumer unit, one cable for each
floor,
> > and visit each rose in turn.
> > Then there is a pair that goes to the switch from the rose (Live
and
> > switched live) and a pair to the light
> >  fitting (switched live and neutral).  With this setup, its
really very
> > easy to fit AD10 without changing wiring
> > or switch (provided you have access to the rose).  If it's LD10,
then
> you
> > need to change the switch to a
> > momentary type which I believe can be obtained in various
finishes.
> >
> > Adrian Lucas
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > mikeh@xxxxxxx on 10/01/2000 14:44:18
> > Please respond to ukha_d@xxxxxxx@SMTP
> > To:	ukha_d@xxxxxxx@SMTP
> > cc:
> > Subject:	[ukha_d] Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!
> > Classification:	Restricted
> > > this is the same set up as the diagram for the brass push
buttons on
> > your
> > > web-site right?
> > > (http://www.letsautomate.com/brass.cfm?cfid=18683&cftoken=27584)
> >
> > Yes
> >
> > >
> > > Where the P must be wired to the LD10, presumably I'm going
to have to
> > find
> > > an independent constant live source for this? (i.e. I'm not
going to
> be
> > able
> > > to use cabling that forms part of the existing light setup).
> Otherwise,
> > the
> >
> > Yes, you need a P that is constantly on. Which of course means
it's not
> > THAT
> > straight forward... :-(
> >
> > Obviously the P GOING to the switch is always on, it's just not
always
> on,
> > AFTER the switch. So maybe you could split the P above the
ceiling where
> > the
> > switch is, and then take it across to where the light is.
Er...turn off
> > the
> > electric first !
> >
> > > LD10 won't get signals to turn on the voltage I guess!. 
Still getting
> > my
> > > head round this, but I think I'm there!  As a general
comment, there
> > doesn't
> > > seem to be a glut of technical information on these modules
(or is it
> me
> > > being dumb?)
> >
> > No you're not being dumb at all. There frankly is, very little
around.
> The
> > single piece of paper you get with the AD/LD is less than
informative...
> >
> > But then that's what we're (this ng) here for !
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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