Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!

["Mike Huggins" <mikeh@xxxxxxx>]

No, no good. This would send a lower than 240V voltage to the LD10, and
therefore wouldn't work.



> What if the existing switch is a dimmer?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Kiff, Graham [SMTP:Graham.Kiff@xxxxxxx]
> > Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 3:12 PM
> > To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
> > Subject: [ukha_d] Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!
> >
> > Will the LD10 work with the existing wall switch but without
diming
> > capability (ie can only be dimmed via X10 commands)
> >
> > Graham Kiff
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: adrian.lucas@xxxxxxx [SMTP:adrian.lucas@xxxxxxx]
> > > Sent: 10 January 2000 15:07
> > > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > > Subject: [ukha_d] Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!
> > >
> > > Unless the wring in your house is very old, you should have
Live and
> > > Neutral available at every ceiling rose.
> > >  They are usually fed from the consumer unit, one cable for
each
floor,
> > > and visit each rose in turn.
> > > Then there is a pair that goes to the switch from the rose
(Live and
> > > switched live) and a pair to the light
> > >  fitting (switched live and neutral).  With this setup, its
really
very
> > > easy to fit AD10 without changing wiring
> > > or switch (provided you have access to the rose).  If it's
LD10, then
> > you
> > > need to change the switch to a
> > > momentary type which I believe can be obtained in various
finishes.
> > >
> > > Adrian Lucas
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > mikeh@xxxxxxx on 10/01/2000 14:44:18
> > > Please respond to ukha_d@xxxxxxx@SMTP
> > > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx@SMTP
> > > cc:
> > > Subject: [ukha_d] Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!
> > > Classification: Restricted
> > > > this is the same set up as the diagram for the brass
push buttons on
> > > your
> > > > web-site right?
> > > > (http://www.letsautomate.com/brass.cfm?cfid=18683&cftoken=27584)
> > >
> > > Yes
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Where the P must be wired to the LD10, presumably I'm
going to have
to
> > > find
> > > > an independent constant live source for this? (i.e. I'm
not going to
> > be
> > > able
> > > > to use cabling that forms part of the existing light
setup).
> > Otherwise,
> > > the
> > >
> > > Yes, you need a P that is constantly on. Which of course
means it's
not
> > > THAT
> > > straight forward... :-(
> > >
> > > Obviously the P GOING to the switch is always on, it's just
not always
> > on,
> > > AFTER the switch. So maybe you could split the P above the
ceiling
where
> > > the
> > > switch is, and then take it across to where the light is.
Er...turn
off
> > > the
> > > electric first !
> > >
> > > > LD10 won't get signals to turn on the voltage I guess!.
 Still
getting
> > > my
> > > > head round this, but I think I'm there!  As a general
comment, there
> > > doesn't
> > > > seem to be a glut of technical information on these
modules (or is
it
> > me
> > > > being dumb?)
> > >
> > > No you're not being dumb at all. There frankly is, very
little around.
> > The
> > > single piece of paper you get with the AD/LD is less than
informative...
> > >
> > > But then that's what we're (this ng) here for !
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
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