Re: I need an out of the house remote

["Josepi" <J.R.M.@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

This unit may work but you will need a neutral to wire to or it won't
function.

A loud "clack" will be usually heard when it switches on and off..


"apl" <phwww@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:YmQzn.71836$iu2.44027@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
How about....

X10 pro 20amp relay wall switch ($32.95 US):
http://www.smarthomeusa.com/ShopByManufacturer/X-10-Pro/Item/XPS3-WI/
Keyfob and trasceiver to control the wall switch ($24.95 US):
http://www.smarthomeusa.com/ShopByManufacturer/X-10-Pro/Item/PHK04/

...Paul

"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:nchvs5hbvl13av7e8ntbb48dlo6lfghbo6@xxxxxxxxxx
> On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 23:18:02 -0400, "Josepi" <J.R.M.@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>
>>No solidstate dimmer light switch is going to handle 800 watts and fit in
>>a
>>regular 2.5" deep switch box.
>
> Thanks for replying.  I don't want to dim them. Just on and off.  I
> can go to a bigger box if necesary. I'm doing all this as a favor to
> them, but that wouldn't be much extra work.   But not in order to get
> a dimmer, which I have no use for.
>
>>Install an X10 switch and change 3/4 of the lamps to CFL lamps. You will
>
> Do they make CFL floot lights?
>
>>have to leave some of them to make the X10 switch module operate
>>correctly.
>>The CFL lamps will be very dim in cold winter months for the first few
>>mintes but the incandescent ones can be interspersed between them for
>>instant full brightness.
>
> These things will only be on about 5 minutes a day, (unless they have
> a party or something), to help her come in when it's dark and to not
> trip on anything.  She sometimes has a hard time walking.
>>
>>A wireless receiver with antenna could be placed in the closest recepticle
>>to the entrance the control is desired from on arrival.
>
> The antenna would be a good thing, absolutely.  Then how do we get
> from the receiver to the on-off switch?  I don't have experience with
> this stuff.
>
>>More than 50' may be
>>pushing it for stock X10 remote control distance.
>>
>>
>>Motion detectors on each or set of lights would be more practical. If none
>
> Not in this case.  It's complicated to explain.  The primary goal is
> for the lights to go on when she turns them on from within the car.
>
>>of them are on then nobody is lurking or moved in the last 5 minutes.
>
>>
>>
>>"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>>news:k1dvs5tbs5bj5lj7mc7tb441sbp7kgbl9k@xxxxxxxxxx
>>Hi,
>>
>>A friend has a 4 or probably 8 floodlights on a wall switch inside his
>>house about 3 feet from the front wall.
>>
>>I would like to replace the wall switch with some sort of X10 wall
>>switch, that will handle 8 floodlights, 800 watts maybe.  There is no
>>need for dimming.
>>
>>And I would like to control the switch from something in his wife's
>>car.  All the remotes I see seem to be meant for inside the house.  It
>>can be the size of a car alarm fob, or it can be bigger.  She would
>>like to turn on the lights when she is still on the street, before she
>>drives up the driveway, where she has the best view of possibly
>>burglars.  So she needs a range of 50 or 100 feet, depending on what
>>it is when I measure it.
>>
>>What would you recommend?   For each half of the "system".
>>
>>Any chance an X10 switch with dip switches could be adjusted for a car
>>fob of unknown brand that has no dipswtiches.  They have four of
>>those, from my earlier attempts to make this happen. :)
>>
>>If not, a remote cheap enough to buy one for each car would be good.
>>They might be short of money now.
>>
>>Model numbers would be greatly appreciated, if you know them.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>