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Re: Signal Bridging Questions...



Thanks for your reply, Jeff.

Turns out it was a supply problem.  The original unit was still good.  Never
assume anything!!!  LOL

--

Keith


"Jeff Volp" <JeffVolp@xxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:teRrl.418283$Mh5.165942@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> There is no way to test either the signal bridge or the X10 signal
> strength with just a multimeter.  The 4816H is really nothing more than a
> series-resonant circuit comprised of 0.1uF capacitor and a 18uH choke.  It
> presents a low impedance at 120KHz.
>
> The problem is most likely due to electrical devices added recently that
> either attenuate X10 signal levels, or generate noise that makes it
> difficult or impossible for a receiving module to correctly decode
> commands. The solution is to either identify and isolate the offending
> devices with filters, or increase the signal levels.
>
> I wrote a X10 troubleshooting series that should help:
> http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
>
> Jeff
>
> "Keith Miller" <k.miller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:FlBrl.597653$yE1.556117@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>>A few years ago, I added a signal bridge (
>>http://www.smarthome.com/4816H.html ) to a friend's X-10 setup to deal
>>with classic bridging symptoms (worked with 240V resistive load on).
>>Every thing worked great for several years.  The same symptoms reappeared
>>recently. Cranking up the baseboard heat eliminated the problem so I
>>assumed the signal bridge had failed & ordered a new one.  Installed that
>>yesterday & yet the problem persists.
>>
>> I'm going back today & verify that the supply wires are hot, but assuming
>> they are, I have a few questions:
>>
>> 1) Is there any way to test the unit with only a multimeter?
>>
>> 2) Should I just assume I was sent a bum unit & return it for another?
>>
>> 3) Any other possible explanations for this behavior?
>>
>> --
>>
>> Keith
>>
>
>



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