Re: XPS3 Strangeness

["BruceR" <razrbruce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

 David White wrote:
snip>
> So it appears that I might need a coupler/repeater. I have been
> reading and trying to understand Jeff's site. It is a bit much for me
> technically. Your article helps a little more but I still feel a bit
> lost. One thing for sure is that I would need an assembled unit from
> Jeff. I have no real electronic skills (I am a software guy and
> hardware escapes me).
>
> I basically understand the plug-in SignalLinc products as well as the
> hardwired ones like these <http://www.smarthome.com/4823.html> and
> <http://www.smarthome.com/2406h.html>. So can you can help me
> understand Jeff's products?
>
> (a) The XTB unit seems less than ideal for my purposes as it lacks a
> bridge between both power supply sources. It also seems like my
> controller MUST be plugged into the XTB (but I am not sure about this)
> for it to boost its output. If true, I'd need one per controller and
> that seems inefficient for my needs (I have three now and likely more
> in the future).
>
> (b) I am not sure but it seems like the XTB-IIR does NOT require that
> my controller be plugged into it directly (even though it appears to
> have a plug to support this). Is this correct?
>
> (c) Does the XTB-IIR need to be on its own set of dedicated breakers
> like the hardwired units from Smarthome?
>
> (d) It seems like Jeff wants the XTB-IIR to be connected to a 3 or 4
> prong outlet rather than being directly wired to the panel. Since I do
> not plan to plug any controller into it, it would be more convenient
> to hardwire it inside the main panel (if the box will fit in there)
> like one would with the other hardwired units. Is this
> possible/supported? If so, what are the dimensions of the XTB-IIR?
>
> (e) The lack of UL and the need to sign a waiver is a point of
> concern. Has anyone checked how this might affect their home owner's
> insurance should a fire happen (even if not the fault of the XTB-IIR)?
>
> (f) How/why are Jeff's units better than this unit
> <http://www.smarthome.com/4820x.html> or this one
> <http://www.smarthome.com/4823.html> or this one
> <http://www.smarthome.com/4820ac.html>?
>
> Thanks for all your time and response.

David,
The legs alternate vertically in the panel so a 220 volt circuit is made
up of 2 breakers, one above the other with a bar connecting the handles:

A-110 A leg
                    >220volts
B-110 B leg
A-110 A leg
B-110 B leg

RE a & b: Correct on a. For b, you do not have to plug your controller
into the XTB-IIR. It will operate as repeater for all signals it
receives. It can, however, replace the TW523 and generate X10 signals
from TTL input.

RE c: You don't HAVE to use dedicated breakers but if there's room in
your panel it's good practice to do so.

RE d: The size is 4.5"x4.5"x2" and yes, you could put it in the panel
and hardwire it if there is room. It generates no appreciable heat.

RE e: Insurance policies vary so you need to check yours. Unless it
could be proven that the XTB-IIR was the cause of the fire I don't see
how a claim could be denied.

RE f: I have tried ALL of those over the years. They boost to a maximum
of 5 volts and don't handle dimming very well. The XTB-IIR boosts to
20volts and is, by far, superior to the ones you listed plus the
Smarthome plug-in version and the other ACT model you didn't list - and
that's all there are.

Bottom line: Don't waste your money on any other X10 signal coupler,
booster or repeater.