Re: XPS3 Strangeness

[David White <whitedavidp@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Robert Green wrote:
> "David White" <whitedavidp@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> Yes.  I've been so impressed by its performance that I wrote an article
> about it for Hometoys:
>
> http://www.hometoys.com/ezine/08.04/green/xtb.htm
>
> Since I installed the XTB-IIR (the coupler/repeater version) my X-10 stuff
> "just works" and that's really much greater praise than it sounds.
>
> You may need an electrician to install the XTB-IIR but that's easier than it
> sounds, because it basically means installing a new 240VAC outlet somewhere,
> hopefully near the circuit panel.  You don't even need to find an "X-10
> smart electrician" for the project.  I found it challenging, but I was able
> to do it myself and I'm no great talent in the electrical deparment.
>
> The XTB increases the power of the X-10 signal (according to the formula
> P=VA) nearly 25 times over the standard X-10 signal.  So far, the only
> problem has been a chime module that "sings" softly whenever the XTB
> transmits, and that was solved by moving it further away from the XTB.
>
> Tremendous improvement.  I was considering scrapping my significant X-10
> investment because the signal problems became worse every year.  I was about
> at wit's end when the XTB came along and I figure it's saved me 1,000's of $
> and 100's of hours of deinstalling X-10 gear and installing new stuff.  The
> only reason why I waited long enough for the XTB to "rescue me" was that I
> couldn't decide which new HA protocol to switch to.  I would have probably
> gone with <choke> Z-wave.  But I wouldn't have gone over happily.
>
> With the mandated switch to CFL's coming soon, I am afraid that the XTB is
> going to become mandatory for most X-10 installations.  Fluorescent lights
> have become the number one source of X-10 "trouble on the line" for a lot of
> people - especially me. Last month, a shoplite that had shown no X-10 band
> noise for the first few years of its life began emitting noise at nearly 2
> volts - strong enough to cause plenty of trouble.  Even the mighty XTB had
> trouble coping with such "loud" noise on the line at the end of long circuit
> branch and that load had to be filtered.
>
> I've had to invest more heavily than I'd like in X-10 filters, but the
> filters allow me to use fluorescent bulbs without problem, and with the
> recent huge hikes in electricity rates, they'll pay for themselves in short
> order.  Eventually, anything 110VAC that's got a light socket will be behind
> an X-10 filter.  I've found that nearly identical runs of CFL's can have
> significantly different electrical characteristics and God only knows what
> LEDs will do to X-10 (or other HA signals) when that technology matures.  So
> it's filters everywhere, but it's a small price to pay to enjoy a break in
> electrical rates and be enviro-friendly at the same time.
>

Thanks for the responses, Robert.

As I understand it, each alternating row of breakers (left/right) gets
its power from alternating sides of the supplied power. So the first row
gets its power from supply A while the second gets its power from supply
B and the third from supply A, etc, etc. Is this correct?

With the above assumed, I did some checking and I believe that the
interior light circuit and the circuit on which the mini controller is
installed come off two different supplies (A and B) and this would cause
problems. I also found that the exterior light circuit was on the same
supply at the mini controller. This would explain why it worked first
time, every time.

To confirm this, I moved the controller to a different part of the house
where it appeared the power is supplied from the same source as the
garage interior light circuit. In this configuration, the mechanism
seems to work flawlessly. I would expect, however, that such a change
would result in a degrading of operation on the exterior light circuit.
But it does not appear to have that result. Perhaps it is due to the
lack of fluorescent fixtures on the exterior light circuit (at least for
now).

I still need to check the circuits on which my CM11A and Radio Shack
timer/controller are located but it seems I have a 50% chance of their
being on the "wrong" side as well.

So it appears that I might need a coupler/repeater. I have been reading
and trying to understand Jeff's site. It is a bit much for me
technically. Your article helps a little more but I still feel a bit
lost. One thing for sure is that I would need an assembled unit from
Jeff. I have no real electronic skills (I am a software guy and hardware
escapes me).

I basically understand the plug-in SignalLinc products as well as the
hardwired ones like these <http://www.smarthome.com/4823.html> and
<http://www.smarthome.com/2406h.html>. So can you can help me understand
Jeff's products?

(a) The XTB unit seems less than ideal for my purposes as it lacks a
bridge between both power supply sources. It also seems like my
controller MUST be plugged into the XTB (but I am not sure about this)
for it to boost its output. If true, I'd need one per controller and
that seems inefficient for my needs (I have three now and likely more in
the future).

(b) I am not sure but it seems like the XTB-IIR does NOT require that my
controller be plugged into it directly (even though it appears to have a
plug to support this). Is this correct?

(c) Does the XTB-IIR need to be on its own set of dedicated breakers
like the hardwired units from Smarthome?

(d) It seems like Jeff wants the XTB-IIR to be connected to a 3 or 4
prong outlet rather than being directly wired to the panel. Since I do
not plan to plug any controller into it, it would be more convenient to
hardwire it inside the main panel (if the box will fit in there) like
one would with the other hardwired units. Is this possible/supported? If
so, what are the dimensions of the XTB-IIR?

(e) The lack of UL and the need to sign a waiver is a point of concern.
Has anyone checked how this might affect their home owner's insurance
should a fire happen (even if not the fault of the XTB-IIR)?

(f) How/why are Jeff's units better than this unit
<http://www.smarthome.com/4820x.html> or this one
<http://www.smarthome.com/4823.html> or this one
<http://www.smarthome.com/4820ac.html>?

Thanks for all your time and response.