Re: The problems with X10 ...

["accidental plumber" <aplayerinla@xxxxxxxxx>]

Dave Houston wrote:
> "accidental plumber" <aplayerinla@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> >Come on, who's everybody at 1999?
>
> What the hell does that senseless drivel mean?
>

That's when I brought my x-10 system and ran into troubles.  I couldn't
learn from you then, can I?

> >If you search around for info, this is precisely what you get, over the
> >top as I already stated.  Basically you are telling people on a budget,
> >who won't change a light switch, not to get into X10 and carrier line.
>
> Can you even read past the third grade level? I usually tell people how to
> make X-10 work without having to spend much money. The difference seems to
> be that I know what I'm talking about while you remain totally clueless
> while presenting yourself as an expert. I got into HA because it offers
> those with disabilities (and without a lot of income) ways to control their
> environment.
>

But your website looked like a hobby electronic kit store.  Turn me off
1st page.

> >And that you don't need to throw a lot of unnecessary money and time
> >for nothing.  And you don't need to do trouble shooting.  I already
> >done the work for you.  If you follow my 1,2, 3's.

>
> As I said, you are clueless and anyone who follows your advice will be
> equally clueless.

My no. 1 point is unique insight, if you do not own your home from new,
it's worth while to check the wiring.  Calling a qualified electrician
in CA to wire a socket will cost you an arm an a leg.  The temptation
is too great for a moron to try doing it and screw up.  It only cost
you 3 dollars and a couple of minutes.

My other advices are not different from the info found everywhere, just
that I have perspective, I weight the likelihood of things and come up
with money and TIME saving suggestions.

What do you suggest again?  Buy a meter that is more expensive than a
starter kit?  You say every appliance is a potential problem.  Does
that help?  Many appliances are wired in and you need an electrician to
add the block.  If you find a weak signal, do you know which thing
cause it?  If you have limited mobility, just block the whole TV
cluster or the PC cluster, and your problems may be cured.  If not,
certainly the signal will be improved.

For a simple lumped, every appliance will have parallel effect,
dragging down the x10 signal.  That's very true for my TV, making it
difficult to turn on.  Adding the laptop adapter, stone dead.  So you
don't need to measure the signal much, because every electronic
contributes.  For the distributed, measuring the signal also doesn't
help much.

>
> >Come on, typical, it's not just the signal meter, you need the
> >transmitter as well.  Buying all that, more expensive than most kits,
> >to decide whether you need a $10 blocker ?!  Is that over the top or
> >what?
>
> There is no need for a special test transmitter as you want to measure the
> signal from your standard transmitters in situ.

>
> >> "X-10 security" is an oxymoron. I can disarm any X-10 security console in
> >> less than 30 seconds from outside the residence without physically touching
> >> anything.
> >
> >That is typical of wireless security systems, but you forget that I
> >have perimeter defense and double or triple protection for cheap.
>
> No, it is not typical of wireless security systems. Most others have some
> semblance of security - decent systems utilize rolling codes - X-10 has
> absolutely no security. I don't have to get inside your "perimeter defense".
> I don't have to jam it. I merely have to send all 256 possible ID codes plus
> a disarm code via RF and there is absolutely no way you can prevent it short
> of turning off your X-10 security console.

How "fact" is your fact?  When I brought it, I remembered that in the
install mode, x10 mentioned something like acquiring a long code.  The
older style magnetic detectors all have a code button, but not on the
new craps.  I'll have to check this.  Any links?

So I still have my PIR's, floodlights and xcams working?  Great, say
cheese.

>
> >I'm telling you, with my now expert insight, that one moron...
>
> We can agree on one thing - you should have expertise on morons - you most
> certainly are one.
>
> >For
> >noise to turn on or off a light by itself is statistically unlikely
> >event, unless you are constantly bombarded by strong noises, or the X10
> >physical and protocol design is really stupid.  If you keep your signal
> >strong by blocking the electronics, noise is much less of a problem.
>
> Spikes from motors starting/stopping or from fluorescents being switched off
> can directly affect many X-10 wall switches causing them to turn on or off.
> This happens in the absence of X-10 signals so neither signal strength nor
> the details of the X-10 protocol is a factor.

So this is very stupid design of the switches, as the fluorescents
lights, washing machines, dishing machines are basically the same as in
the 70's.  So quality switches not labeled Powerhouse will sort that
out?  I don't have those problems.  My haunted house experience ended
when all the lights can be reliably turned on or off by remote.

>
> >One special 3 phase socket in the utility room for the
> >dryer and washer.  But my washer don't need it and I use gas for my
> >dryer.  As my house isn't that big, having one columns of breakers in
> >the distribution box rather than two columns, I think all the lights
> >and sockets of interest are on the same phase.
>
> That is NOT a 3-phase socket idiot! It's a 240V dryer outlet which is single
> phase.
>
> Killfiles were made for morons like you.
>

Now you understand what I mean by over the top.  Everybody talk about
needing phase coupling as a solution without taking about the
likelihood of it.  My socket has 4 pins and 3 phase is a logical
deduction.

I didn't do my 3rd grade here.  I still don't speak that much English
on a daily basis.  I guess your schools are too good that everybody
went on to become electricians, mechanics and plumbers, charging sky
high prices.  For a main switch and a pressure regulator, the highest
estimate is $1000 and the lowest is $600.  From that day I became an
accidental plumber and buy any expensive gadget without 2nd thought.

So your people have to fly me here via business class to fill the other
positions.  I can ship all my furnitures if I like but they say the
smaller size will make it look awkward in Cali houses.  So I only
brought my unfinished car wash bottles.