Re: Security System

[Frank Olson <Use_the_email_links@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Robert L Bass wrote:

> Let the builder do the pre-wire.  Do NOT sign a multi-year
> contract with the alarm company.  Most of those deals are awful
> for the consumer.

Actually, I'd prefer that an alarm company do the pre-wire.  Builders
rarely know anything about motion detector placement, glass breaks or
provide proper perimeter security.  They'll also always opt for the
"cheap" route.



> That's between you and the alarm company.  If they are willing to
> monitor what you install, fine.  Again though, do NOT sign a
> multi-year contract.  Annual agreements are fine but you want the
> freedom to walk away without paying for years of unused service
> in case they turn out not to be a good provider.

Actually, this very much depends on the company.  If a reputable one was
offering monitoring at say $15.00 a month (like we do) most clients
would want the assurance that the price isn't going to increase.  I
don't have many balk at signing a three year agreement.


>
> Some alarm companies refuse to monitor the system unless they can
> lock you out of programming.

Most alarm companies will want to limit your access to installer level
programming for very obvious reasons.  My insurance provider would have
"kittens" if he knew that a customer could (even accidentally) alter the
system programming and prevent it dialling out in the event of an emergency.


> If there's even a hint of that,
> look elsewhere for service.  The problem with that is many of
> those same companies will actually refuse to unlock the panel
> when you stop using their service unless you pay a fat fee.

I doubt that.  This is my 23rd year in this business and I've only come
across one "locked board" on a take-over.  The installing company was no
longer in business and there was no one available to "unlock" it.
Encountering a "locked" board is a rarity these days (even though the
option is there for the installer to use).  I prefer a unique installer
code, and give the customer the option of simply "defaulting" the board
if he no longer wishes our service or having our station remove the
proprietory information through downloading.


> This
> is a frequent complaint I hear from folks who are trying to
> change alarm monitoring companies or quit monitoring entirely.
> Make certain that you and you alone will retain access to
> programming.

I don't hear many complaints from my customers.  In fact, most are
simply "struck dumb" by our awesome service.  :-)  (I also don't see any
post complaints on any of the message boards I participate in.)



> Alarm monitoring services use devices called alarm receivers to
> answer incoming calls from clients' control panels.  The receiver
> will be able to understand one or more message protocols.  Most
> alarm receivers in use today can handle multiple protocols from
> different types of alarms and HA controllers.  The ELK M1 system
> can be programmed to speak most of the major protocols.  Thus
> almost any monitoring company will be able to work with the ELK
> system.
>
> Note that some monitoring companies are unwilling to contract
> directly with an end user.  If you need it be happy to help you
> find a service provider.  There are numerous small, independent
> firms and several national ones that work with DIY systems.

The important thing about companies like "NEXTALARM" (for instance) is
that they're really not a "monitoring company", but an "independent
dealer" that "reps" for a number of monitoring companies.  Please ensure
that any monitoring facility that processes your alarm systems signals
is "UL", or "FM" listed.



>>2.  The sensor switches at the doors and windows--I
>>assume that these are probably nothing more than simple
>>normally open or normally closed swtiches, right?
>
>
> Correct.  Most burglar alarm sensors use a normally (non-alarm
> state) closed circuit that opens when the door or window opens.
> The circuit can be "supervised" by installing an EOLR (end of
> line resistor) in series with the sensor though many installers
> don't even bother putting these in place.  Doing so is simple and
> takes only a minute.  The EOL resistor helps to detect an a short
> circuit which might otherwise prevent the system from detecting
> an alarm.

I would recommend you explore some of the contacts available through GRI
(http://www.grisk.com).  You can order them with built-in end of line
resisitors which is actually the only type we install.  If you order the
ones with terminal screws, you don't have to worry about shoving 6 - 8
inches of "pigtail" back into the hole and it makes servicing so much
easier.  There are a number of online dealers you can purchase contacts
through.  You'll find a convenient list here:
http://www.yoursecuritysource.com/buyingonline.htm.


> Most burglary sensors are closed when the door is closed and open
> when the door opens.  The ELK M1 system, like most others on the
> market, can be programmed to function with either type.
>
> BTW, smoke detectors are open circuit, closing on alarm.  These
> are always supervised with an EOL resistor which is placed across
> a spare pair of terminals at the last detector on a circuit.
> Unlike burglary sensors, smoke and heat detectors are wired in
> parallel, like the rungs on a ladder.  While all is normal a
> small trickle current flows through the resistor at the end.  If
> any detector senses smoke it shorts, triggering the alarm.

Four wire smokes on the other hand require a thing called a power
supervision relay.  If you're contemplating having smoke alarms wired to
your security system, you're going to have to employ a UL listed panel.




>>If I can't use the installed switches, then I really won't be
>>able to do this.
>
>
> Don't worry.  Replacing switches is a piece of cake as long as
> the technician leaves a "service loop" of extra wire in the wall.
> Knowledgeable techs always do this because otherwise they will
> have a miserable time if they ever have to fix the system, say
> after a lightning hit.

Chances are the installing company won't be using EOL supervised loops.
  You won't have to worry about changing out switches in this case.


 > Correct.  Here's the zinger.  You knew there had to be at least
> one, right? :)  The best way to wire the ELK system is to use
> CAT5 wire for the keypads.  Most other panels still use
> untwisted, 22/4 (22 gauge, 4-conductor) wire for the keypads.  If
> your basement ceiling is to be closed in or if there is no
> basement, ask the alarm company to use CAT5 cable for the
> keypads.  Offer them a free roll of the stuff in return.  It's
> cheap (~$60 for 1,000 ft at Home Depot or less at most online
> retailers).

Please follow the manufacturer's installation instructions with respect
to the wire they recommend using for keypads and ancillary devices.  If
your system is going to be using smoke alarms, you may even need to run
18AWG to the keypads (check with the local AHJ).  Robert has frequently
suggested using CAT5 for keypad runs, but there isn't a manufacturer out
there that recommends it.



> Also, install the ELK control panel or, for that matter, any
> alarm or HA control panel near the main electrical panel where it
> is convenient to connect it to the home's earth ground rod.

Once again, please ensure that the area you're mounting your panel is
properly protected physically.  I like to hide the control cabinet in
the upstairs bedroom closet as any "perp" will have to go through
several "layers" of protection to get to it.  The other tip I have is to
have your telephone protector moved inside your garage.  Most phone
companies balk at doing this, but leaving the box outside where anyone
can simply break into it is just asking for trouble.  If you explain
your concern to the installer, they should accomadate you.  If not, you
can always move the box yourself (after they've left).


> This
> is essential for proper lightning protection.

While I agree that the panel should be properly grounded, you can run a
14AWG stranded wire from any location in the house to the electrical
ground.  In Alberta (where I started in the business) we used to leave
panels ungrounded for the simple reason that the panels would stand a
better chance at surviving a nearby strike.  As long as your telephone
protector is properly grounded, you should be OK to run a single 14 AWG
stranded wire to the nearest "safety ground" (the ground lug in the
nearby receptacle for panel power).

In addition to the online dealers listed on the link I supplied above,
you might also explore:

http://www.norcoalarms.com
http://www.yoursecuritystore.com
http://www.wmballen.com
http://www.smarthome.com

Feel free to email me if you have any questions.
feolson(at)yoursecuritysource(dot)com.


Frank Olson
http://www.yoursecuritysource.com