Re: Security System

[Robert L Bass <sales@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> Thanks for the very informative post.  I am seriously considering
> going this route (ELK).  Unfortunately, I am kinda stuck with
> installing the security system that the builder chooses.  I don't mind
> ripping it out and replacing it with a system of my own.  I do have a
> few questions still:

Let the builder do the pre-wire.  Do NOT sign a multi-year
contract with the alarm company.  Most of those deals are awful
for the consumer.

> 1.  The system that he is installing comes with a year of free
> monitoring.  If I install a different system, will I still be a ble to
> use the free (and paid for) monitoring?  (Not really a show
> stopper--I'm just curious.)

That's between you and the alarm company.  If they are willing to
monitor what you install, fine.  Again though, do NOT sign a
multi-year contract.  Annual agreements are fine but you want the
freedom to walk away without paying for years of unused service
in case they turn out not to be a good provider.

Some alarm companies refuse to monitor the system unless they can
lock you out of programming.  If there's even a hint of that,
look elsewhere for service.  The problem with that is many of
those same companies will actually refuse to unlock the panel
when you stop using their service unless you pay a fat fee.  This
is a frequent complaint I hear from folks who are trying to
change alarm monitoring companies or quit monitoring entirely.
Make certain that you and you alone will retain access to
programming.

> I assume that all the security system does is call a
> pre-programmed number, so the guy at the other end
> probably doesn't care what system on my end made
> the call.  Or does the system pass some kind of data to
> the monitoring service that my new system would have
> to understand...

Alarm monitoring services use devices called alarm receivers to
answer incoming calls from clients' control panels.  The receiver
will be able to understand one or more message protocols.  Most
alarm receivers in use today can handle multiple protocols from
different types of alarms and HA controllers.  The ELK M1 system
can be programmed to speak most of the major protocols.  Thus
almost any monitoring company will be able to work with the ELK
system.

Note that some monitoring companies are unwilling to contract
directly with an end user.  If you need it be happy to help you
find a service provider.  There are numerous small, independent
firms and several national ones that work with DIY systems.

> Do I need more information about the system that the
> builder is installing for you to answer these questions?

Not really.  Unless the alarm provider is one of the very few
that only work with one brand, they should be capable of
processing signals from ELK or any other major name controller.

> 2.  The sensor switches at the doors and windows--I
> assume that these are probably nothing more than simple
> normally open or normally closed swtiches, right?

Correct.  Most burglar alarm sensors use a normally (non-alarm
state) closed circuit that opens when the door or window opens.
The circuit can be "supervised" by installing an EOLR (end of
line resistor) in series with the sensor though many installers
don't even bother putting these in place.  Doing so is simple and
takes only a minute.  The EOL resistor helps to detect an a short
circuit which might otherwise prevent the system from detecting
an alarm.

> I envision that some security systems are designed with NO
> switches and some are desigend with NC switches.  I do not
> know what my system will use.  Is the ELK smart enough to
> use either type?

Most burglary sensors are closed when the door is closed and open
when the door opens.  The ELK M1 system, like most others on the
market, can be programmed to function with either type.

BTW, smoke detectors are open circuit, closing on alarm.  These
are always supervised with an EOL resistor which is placed across
a spare pair of terminals at the last detector on a circuit.
Unlike burglary sensors, smoke and heat detectors are wired in
parallel, like the rungs on a ladder.  While all is normal a
small trickle current flows through the resistor at the end.  If
any detector senses smoke it shorts, triggering the alarm.

> I'd really like to use the installed switches.  I see this as a
> definite go/no-go for me.

That shouldn't be a problem.  In the worst case scenario you
might have to pull the out of the wall (they're usually shoved
into the holes without any cement) to replace the EOL resistors
if the panel uses different ones from the ELK system.  If you can
find out which system the builder's guy uses I'll tell you which
resistor it uses and whether that will be an issue.  However,
since many alarm installers either program the system to function
without the resistors or install them inside the control panel
(where they are useless), it probably won't be an issue at all.

> If I can't use the installed switches, then I really won't be
> able to do this.

Don't worry.  Replacing switches is a piece of cake as long as
the technician leaves a "service loop" of extra wire in the wall.
Knowledgeable techs always do this because otherwise they will
have a miserable time if they ever have to fix the system, say
after a lightning hit.

> 3.  Obviuosly, the switches all terminate at the actual security
> system ("black box" from my OP).  From there, there must
> be some type of wiring that connects the system to the
> remote keypads...

Correct.  Here's the zinger.  You knew there had to be at least
one, right? :)  The best way to wire the ELK system is to use
CAT5 wire for the keypads.  Most other panels still use
untwisted, 22/4 (22 gauge, 4-conductor) wire for the keypads.  If
your basement ceiling is to be closed in or if there is no
basement, ask the alarm company to use CAT5 cable for the
keypads.  Offer them a free roll of the stuff in return.  It's
cheap (~$60 for 1,000 ft at Home Depot or less at most online
retailers).

> How is that typically done.  Most likely, where the builder is
> putting his keypads, will want to put my own keypad/touchpad.
> What are the chances that I will be able to use his wiring for
> this?

If you get them to use CAT5 for it, 100%.  If not, you'll have to
run your own wires afterward.  Depending on how you prepare for
this during construction and on the way the house is built, this
can be anything from a breeze to a royal pain.

Most builders will install an extra run of conduit from the
basement or utility room to the attic if you ask.  With that in
place you can easily drop new cables to any place on the floor
below the attic.  If there will be a basement and its ceiling
will remain unfinished, it's a snap to add or replace keypad
wiring on the first floor.  With a drill, electrician's snake and
a little patience, anyone with a modicum of tool skill can do
this.

> What should I ask to builder to put in the area of the
> keypads?  RG6? CAT5? 120 VAC?

Install CAT5.

> Same goes for the area where the security system panel
> is mounted.

Besides wires from the sensors, the system will need a run of
4-conductor or CAT5 (either will work but CAT5 is more
convenient) from the telephone company's "protector" (gray box on
the side of the house).  Also, run CAT5 from the control panel to
wherever your PC or router will be.  Because the ELK system can
connect to the Internet, that CAT5 run will come in very handy
later.

Also, install the ELK control panel or, for that matter, any
alarm or HA control panel near the main electrical panel where it
is convenient to connect it to the home's earth ground rod.  This
is essential for proper lightning protection.  An unswitched,
110VAC outlet should be installed close to the panel.  I like to
install two separate "quad" outlets on the same plywood backboard
where the HA control panel is mounted.  These provide a
convenient place for the system's plug-in transformer and for my
power tools and a work light.

> 4.  Last question.  I would also like to install a camera or
> two.  Perhaps one at the front door.  What type of camera
> and wiring will best work? RG6? CAT5? Will I need power
> there too?

There are a plethora of CAT5 cameras on the market.  These may
very well obsolesce the older style cameras in 10 years.  Most
carry power and signal within the same CAT5 cable.  OTOH, there
are still many more conventional cameras around today.  Wire is
cheap and it takes very little extra time to pull both CAT5 and
RG59 (RG6 is a complete waste for security cameras) plus 18/2 for
camera power.  As such, you may want to have the electrician pull
all three at the same time.

> What is the best way to use and implement a front door
> camera?  I'd love to be able to push a button on a remote
> control for any tv or open a window on any computer in
> the house or see on the touch screens and see who is at
> the door.

Connect the cameras to a "modulator" (box that converts the
camera signal to an in-house TV channel).  The modulator will mix
the camera signal with your incoming CATV or antenna wiring.
Better quality monitors allow you to select a channel for each
camera.  Now, when you want to view the front door, simply change
to that channel.  The same thing can monitor the back yard,
swimming pool, baby's room, etc.

Hope this helps.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

Bass Burglar Alarms
The Online DIY Store
http://www.BassBurglarAlarms.com

--

Never underestimate the power of very stupid people in large
groups.