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Re: fluorescent bulbs + x10



<pshaw@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:cpsra25frcha3am9ealvvh04kkqt7rj0nl@xxxxxxxxxx
> thanks ...that seems to be spot on ... strange that this doesn't
> happen with other lamps but it may be because i'm using 50-100-150
> bulbs in them and they already have a 'trickle' current absorber ...

Compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) have sophisticated electronics built into
their bases that interact (badly) with X-10 control circuitry.  Ironically
the brand new GE CFL bulbs I bought last week from Wal-mart exhibit an
annoying number of bright flashes after they've been turned off remotely.
The batch I bought two months ago behaved just fine.  Obviously, the lamp
designs are still evolving.

> i may just use the mechanical switch on the lamp, as it is next to the
> bedside :-) ...

Then go for it.  CFL's and X-10 do not mix well.  X-10'ers should probably
be barraging lamp manufacturers to address the problem.  When I return these
bulbs, I'll hopefully be casting a vote for X-10 friendliness.

> do any of the other remote systems - z whatever for example, work
> better?

Work differently.  Better is in the eye of the beholder.  If a remote system
doesn't interact with the load, the chances are greater that it will
tolerate CFL bulbs without incident.  X-10 has so much trouble with
fluorescents because it's trying to be "helpful" in sensing whether anyone's
jiggled the lamp's built-in switch.  It was a great idea when the world was
lit with mostly incandescent lamps.  Still, I'd rather have the option.
X-10 modules need a "local sense ON/OFF" slide switch to help cope with the
CFL issue.

> thanks again ... steve

Good luck!

--
Bobby G.

>
> On Thu, 6 Jul 2006 02:51:01 -0400, "Robert Green"
> <ROBERT_GREEN1963@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> >[re: CFL lamps turning themselves back on after a few seconds]
> >
> >> i do have an inexpensive switch mechanism in the lamps (i took
> >> some vases and made them into lamps) ..could that be the problem?
> >
> >Nope - it's the newer CFL lightbulbs.  They are able to relight
themselves
> >via the trickle current used by the module to sense when someone jiggles
the
> >local on switch (aka local control).
> >
> >Two ways out:  Put a small nightlight or other load on the module along
with
> >the CFL to absorb the trickle current or look up:
> >
> > "X10 appliance mod local control current sense diode snip"
> >
> >in Google . . .
> >
> >(oh, heck, here it is:)
> >
> >http://www.geocities.com/ido_bartana/Modifying_Appliance_module.htm
> >
> >and follow the instructions.
> >
> >Downside is that either method makes it impossible to turn on the lamp by
> >using the lamp's built-in switch.  May or may not be a problem for you.
> >
> >I found that using the power supply to my Creative PC speakers worked
nicely
> >to suppress the lamp's relighting although I'd really like the CHA gurus
to
> >figure out a way to do it without sacrificing local control.  Certain
> >fixtures and bulbs don't suffer from the problem but my experience
indicates
> >that more and more fluorescents fixtures of both the 48" striplite and
the
> >spiral CFL kind are likely to relight themselves.  :-(
> >
> >IIRC, I read where someone had taken a module apart, stuck it in the
lamp,
> >did the diode snip and then wired a pushbutton style lamp switch on the
lamp
> >itself so that it triggered the module via the low voltage circuitry.
> >
> >That way you have local control, but the lamp doesn't come back on by
itself
> >because the current sensing diode is snipped.  Don't ask we *where* you
tie
> >the lamp switch in on the module or where I read it.  The last time CFL's
> >flashing back on bothered me I did a Google search and vaguely remember
> >seeing the details.  I think you tie in where the X-10 three-way traveler
> >normally connects but again, you need to search to be sure.
>




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