[Message Prev][Message Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Message Index][Thread Index]

Re: Pool Valve Control



I just wanted equipment control so I didn't put in any monitoring. For
water level monitoring I just look out the window. The Stargate adds
water every day to make up for evaporation. For chemical monitoring I
pay a pool guy to come weekly and take care of cleaning and chemicals -
I used to do it myself but it was a PITA and impractical since I travel
a lot. Living in Hawaii temperature monitoring isn't an issue. The pool
is always perfect just from the sun and the spa is heated only when we
use it. The 350,000 BTU heater gets it up to temp in about 10 minutes!

From:Wayne
wayne@xxxxxxxx

> Thanks Bruce.  What (if anything) do you do for pool & spa monitoring?
> I am a new owner of a house with a pool/spa combo and want to monitor
> & control it.  The existing old Jandy based controller is dead and
> replacement/repair seems overpriced for an HA guy.  Temperature
> monitoring is obviously desired.  I think I would like to monitor the
> pump running and the pressure output to avoid running the pump dry
> somehow.  I would like to monitor the water level.  I would like to
> monitor how much the solar panels are being used, both monitoring the
> actuator and the temperature difference between panel input & output.
>
> Monitoring pH and chlorine would be great, but those sensors seem to
> be expensive, so that may not be justifiable.
>
> Anything I missed or any advice?
>
> On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 03:16:52 GMT, "BruceR" <brNOSPAM@xxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks. You've got it exactly right - right down to the part numbers!
>> The green board was removed from its case (as was the blue board) to
>> put it all together in the surplus Primestar case.  The setup is
>> about 2 years old now and hasn't missed a beat. The high power
>> relays (aka contactors) are European and mount on a short section of
>> DIN rail. They're normally quite pricey but I only paid ~$5 apiece
>> on ebay and the guy through in a piece of DIN rail for a couple
>> extra bucks.
>> The RS485 output on the Stargate controls the relay board. I can send
>> an X10 command to activate a macro to turn things on and off.  In my
>> case, P7-On first turns on the spa pump, waits 3 seconds and
>> activates the valve actuator to send water from the spa through the
>> heater and 20 seconds later turns on the heater. Finally, after a 10
>> minute delay to allow the water to warm up, the spa jets turn on.
>> There are a couple ofhter commands in the macro too.
>> When we're done, P7-Off shuts off the jets and the heater, delays 1
>> minute then closes the valve and shuts off the pump.
>>
>>
>>
>> From:Wayne
>> wayne@xxxxxxxx
>>
>>> So the green board is similar to this power dist board, just to
>>> neaten the wiring.
>>> http://www.pimfg.com/product_detail.asp?master_desc=&secondary_desc=&part=PIDB-1224-ACDC&web_desc=9+CAMERA++DISTRIBUTED+POWER+SUPPLY&price=16.88&html=PIDB-1224-ACDC.GIF&inventory=22&text_spec=PIDB-1224-ACDC.TXT&web_spec=
>>>
>>> The blue board accepts RS485 commands to control the high power
>>> relays?
>>> http://www.resconsys.com/products/relay/8CRXR.htm
>>>
>>> The first 4 functions listed on the lid are controlled by the high
>>> power relays (numbered 1-4) and the other functions (5-8) are
>>> directly controlled by the low power relays on the blue board?
>>>
>>> Very nice!
>>>
>>> On Tue, 23 Aug 2005 03:59:03 GMT, "BruceR" <brNOSPAM@xxxxxxxxxx>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The Goldline actuators are interchangeable with Jandy and Hayward
>>>> and probably made by one of them. $150 is a good price and you can
>>>> find them on ebay even cheaper.
>>>> The Pool Controller in my picture is homegrown - I built it myself
>>>> using DIN mounted contactors I found on ebay for the high voltage
>>>> stuff, an RS485 controlled relay board connected to my JDS
>>>> Stargate, and a low voltage power distribution board from
>>>> www.pimfg.com. The case is a surplus Primestar enclosure.
>>>>
>>>> From:Mitch
>>>> sumcoolgai@xxxxxxxxx
>>>>
>>>>> I got the Goldline actuators thru a pool guy here for $150 US.
>>>>> Not a lot better price than you got.
>>>>>
>>>>> So, please tell me more about the pool controller you have in the
>>>>> pics...
>>>>> Many thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>> Mitch
>>>>>
>>>>> Paul wrote:
>>>>>> How much did those goldline actuators cost you?
>>>>>> I priced one out (24v) at a place here, the total came to about
>>>>>> $250 CDN! I'd love to find a less expensive solution..
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Mitch" <sumcoolgai@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:AMtOe.4819$HR5.3448@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Very Nice!!!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What is the pool controller you have?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Also, have you done anything to get into your spa/pool heater?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'd like to use the Elk M1 to switch the heater between spa and
>>>>>>> pool mode (at least) and change the temperature setting if
>>>>>>> possible.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> BTW, I'll almost certainly go with the relays.  I can't seem to
>>>>>>> get the 12V actuators here (La Jolla, Ca).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> thanks,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mitch
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> BruceR wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> DOH!  http://community.webshots.com/user/brobin111
>>>>>>>> See the Pool Controller album there and feel free to enjoy all
>>>>>>>> the other pictures.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> From:Mitch
>>>>>>>> sumcoolgai@xxxxxxxxx
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Cool... But, you left off the url for the pics/wiring.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Mitch
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> BruceR wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> You have a couple of choices. You can replace the actuators
>>>>>>>>>> with 12 volt models - Goldline offers them as well as others
>>>>>>>>>> but they're not that common. Or, you could use the 12 volt
>>>>>>>>>> outputs to drive the coils of DPST relays to operate the
>>>>>>>>>> actuators you have. This would be the cheaper method by a
>>>>>>>>>> long shot since $8 relays from Radio Shack should do the job
>>>>>>>>>> nicely. Goldline, Jandy and Hayward actuators are
>>>>>>>>>> interchangeable. Basically, you want to run the three wires
>>>>>>>>>> from the switch (you may have a cable attached already) to
>>>>>>>>>> the DPST relay. Common goes to the center, open to one pole
>>>>>>>>>> and close to the other pole. When the relay is energized the
>>>>>>>>>> valve will open and it will close when you turn it off (or
>>>>>>>>>> vice versa depending on how you wire it). If you have 2
>>>>>>>>>> valves that need to operate att he same time - always - you
>>>>>>>>>> could use a DPDT switch. I built a pool controller to use
>>>>>>>>>> with my JDS Stargate. A picture of it is here and a wiring
>>>>>>>>>> diagram is available: From:Mitch sumcoolgai@xxxxxxxxx
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Well, I just spent a fortune on a pool/spa.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I was hoping to control the valves with my Elk M1-Gold.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I've got Goldline Control valve actuators (GVA-24).
>>>>>>>>>>> Unfortunately, they are 24VAC and the Elk outputs are 12V.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Anybody used their Elk to control their spa/pool?  Any
>>>>>>>>>>> ideas/inputs? Many thanks in advance.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Mitch




comp.home.automation Main Index | comp.home.automation Thread Index | comp.home.automation Home | Archives Home