Re: Outdoor camera connections.

[Jim <alarminex@xxxxxxx>]

On Saturday, March 23, 2013 9:38:01 AM UTC-4, E DAWSON wrote:
  Hi again, The video and power connectors in the cement hole can be wrappe=
d in electrical tape so that there will be no grounding possibilities to th=
e concrete. Whether the connectors are in the hole or somewhere else does n=
ot bother me in the least bit. They are loosely in the round cavity and per=
fectly well protected. If you need to get to them, they can be easily pulle=
d back out. They are really going to be a permanent connection and extensio=
n of your short leads coming out of the camera. You also mentioned that you=
 are concerned about attaching the camera directly to the brick and finding=
 enough of a flat surface. If you drill even a 1" hole for your video and p=
ower leads to go thru, in the mortar joint spot where the horizontal and ve=
rtical mortar joints meet, you will find that your fasteners will be in 3 i=
ndividual bricks-based on an average brick size. Normally, on a round flang=
e, you should have only 3 holes for fasteners. So, with as large a flange a=
s you describe, 3 1/2", and based upon the average distance of the holes in=
 the flange to be about 3/8" in from the edge, coupled with a 1" hole in th=
e center for your wiring, that leaves a distance of about 3/4" of net brick=
/mortar in between the center hole and your fastening holes. That is plenty=
 of space so that nothing will crack. I am assuming that you are drilling a=
 1/4" hole into the brick for your fasteners. Unless your cameras are going=
 to be used for wall climbing exercises, there is no need to use any larger=
 fasteners than that. By using 3 bricks, you can create a more even surface=
 for your flange. Think of it as a three-legged stool. Let me take you furt=
her outside the box again. You keep looking at the flange like all of it ha=
s to be perfectly flat up against the brick. It does not, only the 3 points=
 where your fasteners are, need to be parallel with the wall surface. You c=
an use a nifty little invention called 'washers' to adjust your camera flan=
ge to that it clears any obstruction in the brick surface. Also, as one per=
son mentioned earlier, a tiny bit of carefully applied chiseling will work =
wonders. By the way, make sure you buy stainless steel washers and fastener=
s also. So now you'll say, but what about the gap between the flange and th=
e brick because of the washers? Well, what I would use is the same similar =
type of gasket stuff that comes with a pvc electrical box. It is spongy and=
 will adapt to any surface. I have some in sheets of about 1' x 1'. It can =
come in different thicknesses, I have some that is 3/8" thick. You just cut=
 it to size of flange, in your case 3 1/2". Cut a 1" hole in the middle for=
 the wiring and cut out your holes for the fasteners. Now that makes a cust=
om well-fitted seal. Additionally, I would then apply a thin layer of nicel=
y-applied 50-year silicone to the edge between the flange and the brick for=
 added protection. That's how I would do it without going to any further ex=
treme. It will be very sturdy, it will look very good, it will be flat, it =
will be well sealed, and you can get at any of the wiring anytime. About fi=
nding where you can buy that sheet gasket material, I have had mine for qui=
te a long time. I cannot remember exactly how it came into my possession. B=
ut, by using this internet, a dedicated researcher can find out soon enough=
. If you cannot find it, let me know. When I have some time I will find it =
for you. No, I really doubt that it will be a Home Depot or Lowes available=
 product, but you could be pleasantly surprised. I hope this has helped you=
 further.

Good ideas. All will be considered when I finally get a chance to see how t=
hick and strong the textured brick is. The weather is still a little cold y=
et and I've got a lot of wiring to do on the inside for alarms, access cont=
rol, and computer networking that are all more important right now. I figur=
e it should work out timing/weather wise in a few weeks to do the cameras.

I really appreciate your suggestions. Many years ago, when cameras used to =
weigh 5 pounds, I used to do commercial cameras. But I stopped when it got =
to the point that some of the local trunk slammers were installing video fo=
r the cost of equipment and $100.00 a day. And  in recent years I've shyed =
away from commercial work in favor of residential where I enjoy testing my =
snaking and concealment skills. However, one of the "hazzards" of being in =
business so long is having a client like this one for over 25 years who's m=
oving to a much larger location. We've become friends through the years and=
 I "have to" do the job, as much as I would avoid it if it were for a new c=
lient. So I appreciate your help in refreshing my memory about the cameras.=
 Thanks.