Re: Outdoor camera connections.

[Robert Macy <robert.a.macy@xxxxxxxxx>]

On Mar 20, 8:13=A0pm, Jim <alarmi...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 4:12:14 PM UTC-4, ABLE1 wrote:
> > "Jim" <alarminex> wrote in message news:01b7c2a9-3104-44e0-9947-
>
> =A0Tough problem. Not going to be easy but if you can chisel and/or grind=
 off a flat spot on your rough surface large enough for your 4x4 box to sit=
 flat on top of your penetration hole in the wall. Plastic box can be paint=
ed to best match the wall color but you need to use the right paint. Be sur=
e to caulk well around the box against the box. Good luck. Les
>
> Thanks Les,
> I've been thinking about it and today I thought about buying some duct-se=
al and putting it on the back of a piece of Azek or PVC decking and just sc=
rewing it to the wall. The weather wouldn't affect the board and the duct-s=
eal would steady the board and would "space it" too. =A0Duct-seal wouldn't =
dry out and it would keep the board steady. I thought about epoxy on the ba=
ck of the board also but I'd be concerned about controling the epoxy so it =
didn't run down the building before it dried. I'm thinking that there's all=
 kinds of "caulking" stuff out there too. I'll have to take a look next tim=
e I'm at Home Depot. Maybe just simple construction cement would work too.
>
> Any other suggestions are welcome.

If the brick wall is that nice, don't do anything that permanently
mars it, except for the feed hole. Instead take a mold of the surface
with that conformal foam, like they use in packing. That stuff is like
a squishy pad. You would make it flat on the outside mounting surface
and a 'perfect' fit on the inside towards the wall. If you want, you
could make it rigid using expandable fill-foam, cut to shape, then use
a thin sealant between the two. Then there's the fibre glass epoxy
method, too. That's used in boats so would be water proof and last a
while.