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Re: Filing Cabinets That Use Electronic Access?



"Bill" <billnomailnospamx@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:9eoqrdFdc3U1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> "W"  wrote in message
>> So let me ask does *any* third party make an office filing cabinet that
>> has
>> a solinoid activated locking bar that we could wire into?
>>
>
> There are electronic combination locking vertical filing cabinets. Note
> these tend to be higher security cabinets. I just looked at the prices...
>
> $2,229.00 for cabinet.
> $537.00 for add-on electronic combination lock
> =======
> $2766.00  Total, but shipping probably extra.
>
> http://www.filingtoday.com/Fireproof_Fire-King_Vertical_Files_Cabinet_1-Hour_Rated.html
>
> (For more search for filing cabinet combination lock.)
>
> Note: The way these may work is that the top drawer only has this lock on
> it. You enter the combination, then can open the top drawer. Then you
> could open the lower drawers. So I think you need to open the top drawer a
> bit in order to be able to open the lower drawers? You would need to
> verify that.
>
> Anyway that would have a drawback as to dependability so far as what you
> want to do. A flexible cord would need to be wired to the top drawer. Each
> time the drawer was opened it would stretch the cord. That cord might last
> many years, but eventually it would fail and need to be replaced.
>
> And with such an electronic combination lock, you would pretty much need
> to buy one, then take it apart to see if it could be modified so just the
> lock portion could be wired to you card access system. Most probably it
> could, however it might not be possible to modify it. Pretty expensive way
> to find out if you could use a product or not!
>
> If you already owned these cabinets, then that would be another matter.
>
> I think it would be much less expensive to have a custom locking mechanism
> made for your existing filing cabinets.
>
> I think this could be done by placing an electric solenoid / actuator
> below the lowest drawer. Then the wiring to this would not need to move as
> the actuator would be bolted to the cabinet and not a drawer. Then no
> batteries needed as power for the actuator would come from the wire / card
> access system.
>
> I think the best way to approach this would be to get an electric solenoid
> / actuator, THEN find a "mechanical type" who could design rods / bars /
> levers, etc. which would connect the actuator to your existing filing
> cabinet locking bar from below. That type of person you would find at a
> machine shop. If you could take a filing cabinet to this person, a
> soleonid / actuator, a battery to operate the solenoid, and then tell the
> person how you connect the actuator wires to the solenoid to get it to
> lock / unlock, then he could make and install the interconnecting
> mechanism to do the rest.
>
> It takes a LOT of pressure to move the locking bar on some filing
> cabinets. That is... A lot of pressure from an electrical device. The more
> force it can provide, the higher the cost of the actuator / solenoid. With
> that said, a cheaper design might be to install a knob where the existing
> key lock is. The solenoid / actuator would *allow* the locking bar on the
> side of the cabinet to move freely. Then a person would "do the work" of
> moving the bar by then turning the knob to move the locking lever.
>
> The mechanical type person could design this so it stayed unlocked once it
> was unlocked. Or so it re-locked each time the drawers were closed.
>
> Anyway it would be easy to find a "mechanical type" to do the mechanical
> parts for you. Look for an older guy. If all else fails, go to your local
> university and find a mechanical engineering student. They are all broke
> and will work cheap. Then need the money! And just a few hundred dollars
> will make them happy or pay by the hour.
>
> Also "mechanical types" and "electrical types" are different breeds!
> Mechanical people do not understand electrical stuff and electrical people
> are not so good at mechanical stuff. You need to get two separate people
> for this.
>
> Anyway the only question remaining is how does the "output" of a card
> access system work? What is the output voltage? 12 volts DC? How much
> amperage can it provide? 1 amp? How many different outputs can it operate?
> (different doors it is designed to open? In your case, how many filing
> cabinets do you have? Does the card access system have that many different
> outputs?)
>
> Then how does the card access system output work? (Like it was opening a
> door.) Does it provide 12 volts for say 4 seconds, then power off? Can
> this be changed to longer shorter in settings or is that time fixed?
>
> And note that you would NOT want the actuator to remain powered for the
> full time the cabinet is open! Like powered for 8 hours. Solenoids /
> actuators get hot when powered on for a long time. They can burn out. Best
> is briefly on for a few seconds each time something is opened.
>
> Then if the above is how a card access system works, next would come the
> type of solenoid you would want. Some will spring forward when power is
> applied, then return when power is removed. Others will spring forward
> when power is applied, then stay then when power is removed. Then you need
> to reverse power to move it the opposite direction.
>
> So you would need a solenoid / actuator which would work along with the
> output of your card access system.
>
> A device which could work is the electric door lock actuator on cars. Some
> of these work by moving one direction when power is applied, then it stays
> there. And it will move the opposite direction when power is reversed. You
> can get these cheap from automotive wrecking yards if you just want to
> play with one. They are located in the door of the car and 12 volts DC
> (car battery) operates them of course.
>
> Or search google.com for solenoid. Or for actuator.
>
> People who play / work on robots are quite familiar with solenoids and
> actuators. Again a university electrical engineering department would
> provide a host of people who would know all about this.
>
> Before you do anything, remove the bottom drawer from one of your filing
> cabinets and see if there is room below the drawer for an electrical
> actuator....
>

Gee whiz Bill, you might have drawn up the plans and schematics and emailed
them to him.  Now that he as all the information on how to do it for FREE he
will never want to contact me to do the work!!!

Bummer!!!  It would have been a fun project for the winter.

Les




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