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Re: Life Sucks, Then You Move On



On Dec 4, 9:28=A0pm, Effenpig1 <dirtyspicev...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> On Dec 4, 8:14=A0pm, Jim <alarmi...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Dec 4, 1:47 pm, JoeRaisin <joeraisin2...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > > Lost my job yesterday. My regional ops mgr and supervisor are lobbyin=
g
> > > to get that decision reversed but I'm not holding my breath.
>
> > > I'm receiving a military pension which helps in one regard but that
> > > almost entirely offsets unemployment...
>
> > > Filed a DBA (Doing Business As) today for low voltage wiring and I'm
> > > picking up liability insurance Monday. I have a few questions.
>
> > > I am NICET Level II Certified and hold a Michigan Fire Alarm Specialt=
y
> > > Technician License.
>
> > > 1. What's covered under a non-compete clause? I won't be installing
> > > alarms but am planning on trying to subcontract low voltage wiring fo=
r
> > > sprinkler companies. Mainly (I hope) it will be phones, TV, network
> > > cabling - things like that (I don't know enough right now about sound
> > > system cabling but I'm a quick study if it comes to it).
>
> > Hi Joe,
>
> > Sorry to hear about your job loss.
>
> > As far as what's covered under a non compete agreement, it varies and
> > there's no standard wording. Every company can put what they want in
> > them as long as it's legal. Some companies use a boiler plate form but
> > most custom word them to match their particular situation. If I were
> > you, I'd ask your former employer for a copy so you can see where you
> > stand. There may be a no compete within a certain milage, certainly
> > with their existing customers. There can be clauses regarding how you
> > solicit business and how you refer to yourself to your customers as a
> > former employee of the company. Regardless, as long as you can prove
> > that =A0you didn't or don't deliberately go after their accounts, they
> > can't deprive you of making a living. Where the problem arises is if
> > someone does want to press the point that you are breaking your non
> > compete agreement, and takes it to court, you have to pay an attorney
> > to defend you even if you win.
>
> > > With my license I can do NFPA Fire Alarm Inspections and am told (by
> > > someone who may or may not know what they are talking about) that as
> > > long as I don't solicit current customers of my former employer it is=
n't
> > > a problem.
>
> > It depends upon the wording in the agreement you signed.
>
> > > 2. I know it varies from region to region but how would you guys go
> > > about estimating a wiring job? By the foot? By the estimated hours?
> > > By the number of drops? All of the above? Money up front or bill late=
r
> > > or a combination?
>
> > A wiring job for what? Now, I estimate for the amount of time and the
> > cost of wire. The cost of wire only if it's a big job. But that is
> > something that I do from experience and have to see the job to do the
> > estimate. Keep in mind that I no longer do commercial and when I did,
> > I was estimating for the entire job, from pre-wire to turn on. I never
> > did just wiring. I always got half the job payment up front and if the
> > job was delayed for any reason, after 30 days I got another 25%.
>
> > > As for contacting builders - I was thinking about doing a sort of
> > > 'resume' thing that details my background, training and what services=
 I
> > > offer and visiting builders in person. Any suggestions?
>
> > During this time, visiting builders as a new kid on the block, I don't
> > think will be very productive. Builders are running in the stealth
> > mode right now because of the economy which has hit them the hardest.
> > It never hurts to get =A0your name out there but I wouldn't expect too
> > much from that area right now. A business card with some of the things
> > you do on it and a vist, if you can get them to even talk with you is
> > the best. What I found with builders is just keep dropping in on them
> > every few months and someday you just may hit them when they're
> > looking. It's usually, out of sight, out of mind with them, until you
> > actually do some work for them. Of course, once you get to talk to
> > them they'll want you to give them a special SPECIAL discount because
> > they're a =A0builder. I never understood their reasoning that you were
> > supposed to make less money per hour because you were working for a
> > builder. So they could add a hundred percent to your price and keep
> > the difference. When I first started I would give them the discount
> > that they were looking for until I finally wised up and had an
> > established following. Then, I stopped persuing that kind of business.
> > Now, if and when, rarely I'm asked by a builder to give them a price,
> > they get the same price as if I were quoting to a potential client. As
> > you can guess, I don't get much business from that sector anymore.
> > It's very cut throat and there's no loyalty (in my experience) Lowest
> > price rules.
>
> > > 3. Business cards - I googled free business cards and came up with to=
ns
> > > of sites - have any of you used such a thing and do you have any
> > > recommendations? Simple/fancy - what info should be on them?
>
> > I've never used a free service. I have a =A0printer that I've used for
> > years. Besides, at this stage of the game, I don't have much use for
> > business cards. 99% of my work is referral. However, I vote for
> > simplicity. Mine is a plain white card with the company name in red
> > and the rest in blue. List the type of work I do. My license numbers
> > (required by law) my personal name and year established which I didn't
> > have on the card until I'd been in business 10 years. I've thought
> > about listing the things that I do, in greater detail on the back of
> > the card, but I don't think most people will normally turn a business
> > card over.
>
> > > 4. Supplies - I know I can get wire at Home Depot or the local
> > > Electrical Supply house - what other options might there be? I've
> > > worked with enough cheap wire before to know I want to use a decent
> > > product so are there any brands I should avoid?
>
> > I'd think that you'd do much better on wire pricing at someplace like
> > ADI, Tried, Alarmax, even Graybar or some electrical supplier. I don't
> > think =A0you're going to get the best price at Home Depot. I typically
> > buy from ADI and they use Genesis brand. It's not the top quality but
> > it seems to do the job.
>
> > > I know these may be basic and perhaps dumb questions but I've never h=
ad
> > > to deal with such things before and I have to admit I'm still a littl=
e
> > > befuddled and off balance - pretty sick to my stomach as well.
>
> > > Is there anything else I should be considering? I am totally a fish o=
ut
> > > of water here but, being in Michigan, there's a lot of folks lining u=
p
> > > for 7 buck an hour night stock jobs so, while I do plan on looking fo=
r
> > > something, and who knows - this might work out. Regardless, I've got =
to
> > > do something or we don't eat.
>
> > Well, I'm sorry to say that there's a whole shit load of things you
> > should be considering but if you've been around long enough, have a
> > common sense attitude about what you're doing, things will turn out
> > OK.
>
> > I know it's not much but hope this helped a little.
>
> Try Vista Print for the business cards, just be careful to not sign up
> for the vista rewards club ( it deducts 15 a month from your account,
> I didn't notice for several months but they refunded all money
> promptly when I complained.) Anyway, they have some nice stuff for the
> prices.
>
> I opened my doors in '04 and I would never go back, ever
>
> Good luck

Did you watch out for the vista club trap? I think it's incorporated
into the checkout button ;)

I didn't realize I had signed up for the rewards club, but they did
send me a bunch of free w/shipping deals. I did get some of the stuff
- 100 free postcards, t-shirts, rubber stamps, custom posters. I
didn't realize I was getting these offers because I had joined this
"club". Anyway, they deducted $14.99 per month for 11 months before I
caught on ( yes , I'm a little slow). I called and complained and a
few days later the money for all 11 months was back in my account.

I designed a poster ( they had a limited number of backgrounds to
choose from), anyway, I chose one of a beach and ocean scene with a
palm tree in the foreground. In BOLD it reads " WHAT A VACATION !!!!"
then below it in small print " Too bad someone has broken into your
house and is raping your cat at this very moment".  At the bottom it
reads "Don't wait till it's too late" and My Security Company Name". I
have it on my home office wall and it still cracks me up every time I
look at it. *Sigh* I really need to get out more.

Anyway, I think you'll be happy with the vistaprint stuff, it's nice
quality for the money. Just watch your account for debits of $14.99. I
do try to source as many supplies locally as possible, it can be a
great avenue for new customers. I get my T-shirts printed locally and
I have their security account. I get my signs local and have their
account. I have 3 accounts with my insurance agent, and so on. BTW, I
swear 10% of my accounts are pizza shops ( starting to really hate
pizza at this point) My advice would be to get out there face to face,
IMHO it will get you more business, and more "bang for your buck" than
advertising. Some may argue with this, but don't waste big bucks on
yellow page ads and the like. Go out, get some customers, treat them
right, and let them advertise for you.

I'm reading back over what I just typed and it appears I've had way to
much caffeine tonite.



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