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Re: Window Sensors



> First of all, who ever did the pre-wire, didn't have a clue about what
> he was doing. I don't know if you've considered it, but if you went
> through a builder for the pre wire, have you contacted him and asked
> him to make
> good on the poor job or at least get some compensation for your
> upcoming and ongoing troubles with your alarm system? What did he
> say?  If you contracted it directly, have you pursued it with the
> contractor and what did they say? Did you ask either of them what
> their plans were for the ? inch holes in the sills? Or perhaps you
> just bought the house "as is"
The house came pre-wired at no cost to me when I built it last year.
I do not think I have any recourse to contact the installers directly,
as after looking at a neighbors house that had his alarm "activated"
by the company that did the pre-wire, all of the windows have a push
button type switch that goes under the seal and into the sill.  First
off, I didn't like how this looked, and secondly the info I read about
the internet has lead me far, far away from these types of switches if
they are to be exposed to the elements.  To me, I'm not sure if
contacting the pre-wire company makes any sense since if they did this
bad of a job in the first place, I don't think I want them mucking
around with my windows and make it any worse.



> No one has said this, but DO NOT use any kind of push button switch in
> the sills of windows. They will inevitably jam with debris, grit,
> paint .... you name it.
Got it, thanks.



> No one has mentioned that GRI also carries 1/4 inch rare earth magnets
> that may align with the ? inch recessed contacts. Even though the ?
> inch switch is larger than a 3/8s inch switch does not mean that you
> need a larger magnet to make it operate. Generally speaking you can
> pretty much count on the fact that now days, most switches use the
> same size reed contact and require the same amount of magnetic pull to
> activate them. You'd have to experiment, to be absolutely sure, but
> I'm betting that the 1/4 inch rare earth mags, drilled beside and on
> the inside of the weather strip, would be strong enough to close the ?
> switch. GRI has two sizes .... 1/4" dia by 1/8" thick and 1/4" dia by
> 1/4' thick. The latter being the stronger of the two. If you've got
> enough meat in the bottom of the sash to drill a 1/4 inch deep hole
> with a brad point bit .... to recess the magnet, then I have no doubt
> it would pull in the ?" switch.
I've found a good source for the switches as well as the "button" type
magnets that have a hole in the middle of them to be screwed to the
bottom of the sash.  So you're saying there needs to be a drilled out
hole for the buttons to sit in?  I believe the window is the newer
style hollow core type that is entirely made of plastic and metal with
dual panes with an insulation layer between.


> I'd have to actually see the window and how and where the holes were
> drilled, but if I were looking at the job, I would try to evaluate if
> the wires could be redirected so that you might be able to consider
> using surface mount contacts on the inside window sill, rather than
> messing with the ? contacts that are going to be at least partially
> exposed to the weather. ( ie the part of the switch that's on the
> outer side of the window seal.)  I'd bet there's a possibility that
> with an experienced installer with a practiced dill hand, a small wire
> hole could be drilled between the inner window sill or ( if the window
> has a raised lower lip on it) the inside edge of the window. A small
> surface contact could be used instead of an ill placed, partially
> exposed contact in the outer sill. Once the wire was re-routed, hole
> plugs could be used to fill the ? holes, then caulked and painted.
> Now days, there are many surface mount contacts that are so small as
> to be almost unnoticeable.
>
> The wires may be able to be re-routed to another hole drilled in the
> right place in the sill, that would accommodate a 3/8 inch recessed
> contact also. Again .... sealing up the ? hole.
Would you like to see a photo?  I can put one on the net tonight.  I
had thought about using surface mounted contacts but the look doesn't
appeal to me.  But, at the end of the day I want functional perimeter
detection, so the surface mounts may be the way to go.  I'd just have
to figure out how to get the holes lined up since most of the pre-
drilled holes are nowhere near the outside edges of the sill.  The
only way I could see doing it is to route a channel into the sash with
a dremel and run the wire in there, then covering it up with putty and
painting.  Sounds like a lot of work though!


> With regard to the doors, I don't use the roller ball or roller wheel
> switches. Eventually they will need replacing and they will likely jam
> and you'll think the door is protected .... when it isn't.
I noted this too, and putting in reed switches isn't that hard, so I'm
going that route.

> There are ? recessed magnetic contacts that are made specifically for
> metal doors. Actually they are normal ? contacts with heavy duty
> magnets. Some/most(?)  have the switches and or the magnets spaced so
> that they are as far away from the metal as possible.
I found those too, thanks again.

Thanks
-Mark



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