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Re: Connecting two DMP alarms together? Outputs to Zones? Possible?



Hello again.

Oh boy. It looks like my previous posts (submitted via Google)  finally made
it to the group about todays after I had sent a better thought out post. So
I'm sorry about  people having to duplicate there answers.

I'm now using Verizon newsgroups directly inside of utlook Express, so this
will never happen again.

Some one asked how would a DIY get DMP products? Well to start off, when I
built my house, I asked the contractor for an alarm system. The system was
never installed, so I was left with a pile of parts. DMPs website provides
PDFs for all of there products.

> this is how products...any product..can get a bad rap...someone who
> doesn't
> know the system/programming etc....just an overall comment.

I realize that statement is just a comment, but I never gave DMP products a
bad rap. I may not have the electronics aspect down, but the programming is
actually pretty darn simple.

So someone also mentioned, that getting a XRSuper6 cost more money, etc.
Well, actually I purchased a brand new XR20 off Ebay for my personal system,
so I had the
XRSuper6 laying around collecting dust. I almost resold it on Ebay, but I
gave that to my brother to use with his XR200.

I should have done more research on the XR200. After the fact, it does seem
like an awesome panel. I didn't realize it could be partitioned and armed
separately etc.

Also (to my defense) we didn't have any 790 keypads just 690s. So we would
have had to wait and purchase a zone expander. And since the only way to get
parts is via EBay, who knows how long that would take to show up. I know,
there are currently two on there now. Never fails :)

Anyway, we're still going to go use the XRSuper6 in the garage. Everything
is already installed, so we really don't want disconnect everything and
start over.

We decided to get an 860 Relay Module, and an additional 305, and tie the
N/C contacts of Relay 1 and Relay into the XR200 as Zones 7 and 8.

When the garage goes into burglary, output 3 goes active, opens the relay,
and the XR200 goes into alarm via zone 7 and the house keypad displays
Garage Burglary.

If a fire is detected, output 4 goes active, opens the relay, and the XR200
goes into alarm via zone 8 and the house keypad displays Garage Fire.

Again, I realize that this is not a correct solution, but it should work.
Our system is unsupervised anyway.

I also understand the higher risk of lightening. A little better for us, the
wires were run way underground years ago.

Thanks for all your comments and answers. I really appreciate it!

-- Jason



"Crash Gordon" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:v0uwf.1$_J6.165@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> The best way to do this is remove the XR6 and put a fire rated zone
> expander
> there in it's stead, using the 4 conductors from the house to the garage.
> That will give 3 burg zones and one for the smokes. Then program the
> garage
> keypad and zone expander as partition 2...bada bing..done and supervised.
>
>
> "Jim" <alarminex@xxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:1136696675.202919.212620@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> |
> | jsm174@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> | > Hello.
> | >
> | > I have two DMP alarm panels. I have an XR200 and a XRSuper6 - both in
> | > different buildings approximately 100' away.
> | >
> | > I have the XRSuper6 configured to activate output 3 whenever a Fire
> | > condition is triggered. It is also configured to activate output 4
> | > whenever a Burglary condition is triggered.
> | >
> | > I am trying to tie those outputs into the XR200 as zones 7 and 8.
> | >
> | > I'm confused about how outputs work. From the manual:
> | >
> | > "The four annunicator outputs can be programmed to indicate the
> | > activity ofthe panel's zones or conditions occurring on the system.
> | > Annunciator outputs do not provide a voltage but instead
> | > switch-to-ground voltage from another source."
> | >
> | > For my system to work correctly, it is almost like I need the outputs
> | > to act like door contacts... Closed when not in alarm, and open when
> in
> | > alarm.
> | >
> | > I've checked for continuity between the panel ground and the alarm
> | > output, but it is always open. Thus when I try to arm the XR200, I'm
> | > getting faults on zones 7 and 8.
> | >
> | > Has anyone ever tried to do something like this?
> | >
> | > Thanks,
> | > -- Jason Millard
> |
> |
> | You can do this, but I'd suggest that you make darn sure that it's
> | acceptable by your AHJ. Fer sure ....It's not acceptable to do this in
> | my area and you're sure taking a chance of something going seriously
> | wrong ...... especially where the fire detection is concerned.
> |
> | Keep in mind that I'm not familiar with either of the panels you're
> | using but this is how I'd guess you should be able to do it.
> |
> | Program the XR200 to require end of line resistors on zones 7 and 8.
> | Install the resistors across the zone terminals. Program (lets say)
> | zone 8 for fire and zone 7 for burglary. Run three wires from the XRS 6
> | panel to the XR200.
> |
> | Connect one wire from a negative circuit (ground) terminal in the XRS6
> | panel to a negative circuit (ground) terminal in the XR200  ( A
> | "common" ground connection must exist between the panels ....... I
> | don't mean "earth ground")
> |
> | Connect the second wire from "output 4" of the XRS6 to the positive
> | terminal of zone 7 of the XR200, along with one end of the existing end
> | of line resistor. ( when output 4 of the XRS6 goes negative, it will
> | trip the zone.)
> |
> | Connect the third wire from "output 3" of the XRS6 to the coil of a
> | sensitive relay  ( low current draw ie a few mills ... see Altronix)
> | installed in the XR200        The other side of the relay coil should
> | be connected to the aux positive output of the panel through a diode.
> | The normally open contacts of the relay are connected across the end of
> | line resistor on zone 7. ( when output 3 goes negative, the relay
> | contacts will short out the resistor simulating a fire alarm.)
> |
> | I'm not sure of the negative "swing" of these panels or the current
> | available, so it's possible that this wont work over the distance of
> | wire that you're using. If you can, just to be on the safe side, you
> | should run a couple of "4 wires" and double up on the wires for each of
> | the three wire runs or run 18 guage wire. If it still doesn't work
> | because of lack of current or "swing" to negative, you might try
> | biasing outputs 3 and 4  of the SRX6, positive, through a 2.2K
> | resistor.
> |
> | But ........ see what happens first.
> |
> | Keep in mind this is not a good thing to do. There's no supervision or,
> | as a matter of fact, nothing about this, that sounds like it should be
> | done.
> |
> |
>
>




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