Re: Hi Jacked Thread - Solid vs Stranded and Other Prewire issues

["Bob Worthy" <securinc@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

"Bob La Londe" <usenet@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:j-GdnWruKbY6s2LeRVn-gQ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> "Bob Worthy" <securinc@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:QcFLf.39534$bW.8125@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > "Robert L Bass" wrote in message
> >
> >
> >> For most systems the wiring is simple enough.  Using 22/4 solid
> >
> > or stranded. I see more problems with solid down the road, than with
> > stranded, but that is open to opinions. Nothing says you have to use one
> > over the other.
>
> There are advantages and disadvanatages.  I can't say I have seen any
> problems with solid over stranded once an installation is complete.

We used to use solid, as a standard, many years ago, when working for a
national company. I switched, when on one particular type of system, that we
were installing, required us to keep going into different areas of the
system and adding more buildings over the years. Eventually, we started
getting opens on the circuits. It seemed the problem was always at the
splice point. Not the new one, but the existing ones in the same area.
Granted, it wasn't the best application, but it was, as is in most of todays
applications, two wires spliced together with beans, beanies, crimps or what
ever other term people use. The crimps have very sharp little teeth inside
to penetrate the outer jacket of the wire. I think that it might be
possible, that with that style crimp, those teeth just may be scoring,
notching, or damaging the solid copper core, leaving it weaker than normal.
When people are back into the splice, where there is always that possibility
of bending or repeated movement of the wire, the copper could break within
the jacket at the splice. Maybe we were using the wrong crimps, or maybe we
should have been using blocks but in any case, the average installer is
going to use the most popular method and that is crimps. The problem went
away with stranded wire.

> There
> are a couple things that enter in for a prewire during construction.  Any
> wire tags that wind up hanging out of doors or windows tend to get torn up
> from opening and closing.  The stranded tends to hold up marginally better
> to this abuse.

Agreed

 Unfortunatley the stranded is much more limp making it
> difficult to leave a bit of slack up in the wall or ceiling.  I use the
> solid because I can make an accordiin bend back and forth in my hand about
> five times and leave it inside the frame of the house.

Here in Florida, we don't have that luxury. There is only a 3/4" cap between
the sheet rock and the cement block and we have to make a block shot
diagonally from the wall to the window. We need flexibility.

  This gives me abut 2
> feet of slack to work with.

Must be nice

  When I come back to do a tie down I grab the
> wire hanging out of the hole and pull it down.  Then I completely cut off
> the stub that was sticking out.  This totally eliminates any wire damaged
> from the opening and closing of the door or window.

We have to drill either a 3/4" or 1" hole into the window or door buck and
curl our service loop up into that. Again, needing the flexibility. The new
hurricane codes have the doors and windows bolted tight tight tight to the
sub frame with no caps. Not as easy as the old days.
>
> I don't imagine that many residential low voltage contractors carry and
> angle grinder and a cable locator in their truck.

Working in S. Florida, where everything is concrete and steel they do.

 Bottom line is that you are right. I am sure there are advantages and
disadvantages to both from area to area and mostly boils down to preference.