RE: [OT] : wiring sockets ??

["Marcus Warrington" <marcusw@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Ben, (and Andrew and Tim)

Thanks for the reply. I notice you say 20amp connector block in your reply
so is it OKto use a 20 amp connector instead of the 30amp I have currently
used. If so I will rewire it because at the moment the wires are pushing
the socket off the wall slightly. In fact another member suggested that
15amp would be OK ?

Thanks for the advice on using 2.5T&E, I'll have to see if BQ sell
2.5T&E in a flexible form :)

One thing that does concern me is the fact that the socket body is metal
but have no earth tag.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/KS104.html

I assume there is no tag because the connection are "capped" by a
plastic cup that is clipped on the back of each socket (with the wire
entering through a hole in the cap and clamped like in a plug). My conmcern
is that I have now

made a connection (via the chocolate block) outside this cup within the
metail body, I have wrapped it in 3 layers of insulation tape but is this
enough to be safe or should I be soldering an earth lead onto the body ?

Marcus


-----Original Message-----
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 18:03:15 +0100
From: "ben addsion" ben@xxxxxxx

Hi Marcus,

Everything you have done is fine, apart from using the 1.5. the cable from
the 20a block needs to be 2.5mm as the mcb for the ring will be 32a. the
other way is to de-rate the mcb to 16a to protect the 1.5.

The best thing to do is get a electrician to come out and do it for you. As
he will be able to get the 2 2.5 into the socket.

Ben Addison (ltd)
Electrical Contractors
07889845712

-----Original Message-----
From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [mailto:ukha_d@xxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Marcus Warrington
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 2:57 PM
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: [ukha_d] c

Sorry to be off topic but I wonder if some of the "sparks" on the
list could
give me some advise..

I have some kitchen under cupboard sockets that are surface/wall mounted
stainless steel wedges... (see tlc-direct)

When I came to wire them up (last night) I discovered that the two sockets
are completely separate (unlike a conventional double socket were the one
set of connectors feed both sockets). Unfortunately I had the kitchen
rewired with the expectation of having under cupboard mounted sockets so
the
ring mains wire just loops out of the wall under each cupboard and there
are
no pattress' in the wall etc. The lack of space behind these sockets means
that the only way I could see of wiring then was to use a connector block
to
complete the ring and the drop two lengths of wire (spur) from the block,
one to each socket.

Two questions..

1) What rating of connector block is required to join a ring main ? I have
used a 30 amp connector block but its a little big really and if possible
using a 20amp would give more room behind the socket and allow a better fit
against the wall. There is not enough space to use one of those plastic
circular connectors so I've had to use one of the "chocolate
block" style
and then wrap it up in 2 or 3 layers of insulation tape.. is this OK ?

2) Using 2.5 T&E for each "spur" (from the chocolate block)
to each socket
also made it very difficult to get everything onto the wall due to the
wires
stiffness and bulk etc. Would it be safe to use some 1.5 T&E round flex
from
the chocolate block to the socket instead of the 2.5 T&E ?

Oh, and before someone quotes "part P"... its all done with the
"old" wiring
scheme so... "its been like that for years, honest"

TIA

Marcus



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