Re: Re: [OT] : wiring sockets ??

[Andrew Kilgore <andrew.kilgore@xxxxxxxxx>]

Noted - but the figure of 30 amps was just meant as an example...

On 7/19/05, mastertaz70 <jonwn1@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> If you have an appliance drawing 30amps by NEC (National Electric
> Code) you should have a 30 amp double pole breaker on that circuit.If
> you ever had an inspection they would deem it unsafe otherwise.
>
> --- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, Andrew Kilgore <andrew.kilgore@g...>
> wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > Firstly, I'm not an electrician either - qualified or not ;o)
> > (But my dad is!)
> >
> > The only thing I can possibly help you with is the rating of the
> > connector block.
> > As far as I understand it, if an appliance on a ring circuit is
> > drawing (say) 30 amps, then 15 amps are drawn along one side of
the
> > ring and 15 amps down the other side. So, all you should need is
a
> > connector block capable of handling 15 amps (or half the rating
of
> the
> > fuse used to protect te circuit).
> >
> > Can anyone back this up or dismiss it as utter nonsense...?
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > Andy.
> >
> > On 7/19/05, Hawes,Timothy Edward (GEG) <haweste@a...>
wrote:
> > > Marcus,
> > >
> > > Firstly, I'm not a qualified electrician etc.
> > >
> > > When I recently re-wired some sockets (before Part P too -
what a
> > > coincidence ;-)  ) I separated out a double socket into two
> singles and
> > > a fused spur. I put one ring cable into the first socket,
then
> used
> > > another piece of 2.5mm T&E to loop from the back of the
first
> socket
> > > into the spur, then another 2.5mm T&E loop from the spur
to the
> next
> > > socket where I also connected the "other" half of
the ring. Does
> that
> > > make sense? Essentially I just continued the ring through my
3
> devices,
> > > where I used to have a single (but 2-gang) socket.
> > >
> > > I know the type of sockets you mean, but haven't seen any in
> detail. I
> > > used 30A chock bloc connectors and they only just fitted
into a
> 47mm
> > > single gang box :-(
> > > AFAIK you can use 1.5mm T&E, BUT you have to derate the
cable and
> > > protect with the appropriate fuse, however, I don't proclaim
to
> know the
> > > regs inside out so there may be something that prohibits you
any
> way.
> > >
> > > I can send you a sketch off-list of how I wired mine if
> interested - a
> > > picture's worth a thousand words and all that, just let me
know :-
> )
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Tim.
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Marcus Warrington
> > > >
> > > > Sorry to be off topic but I wonder if some of the
"sparks" on
> > > > the list could give me some advise..
> > > >
> > > > I have some kitchen under cupboard sockets that are
> > > > surface/wall mounted stainless steel wedges... (see
tlc-direct)
> > > >
> > > > When I came to wire them up (last night) I discovered
that
> > > > the two sockets are completely separate (unlike a
> > > > conventional double socket were the one set of
connectors
> > > > feed both sockets). Unfortunately I had the kitchen
rewired
> > > > with the expectation of having under cupboard mounted
sockets
> > > > so the ring mains wire just loops out of the wall under
each
> > > > cupboard and there are no pattress' in the wall etc.
The lack
> > > > of space behind these sockets means that the only way I
could
> > > > see of wiring then was to use a connector block to
complete
> > > > the ring and the drop two lengths of wire (spur) from
the
> > > > block, one to each socket.
> > > >
> > > > Two questions..
> > > >
> > > > 1) What rating of connector block is required to join a
ring
> > > > main ? I have used a 30 amp connector block but its a
little
> > > > big really and if possible using a 20amp would give
more room
> > > > behind the socket and allow a better fit against the
wall.
> > > > There is not enough space to use one of those plastic
> > > > circular connectors so I've had to use one of the
"chocolate
> > > > block" style and then wrap it up in 2 or 3 layers
of
> > > > insulation tape.. is this OK ?
> > > >
> > > > 2) Using 2.5 T&E for each "spur" (from
the chocolate block)
> > > > to each socket also made it very difficult to get
everything
> > > > onto the wall due to the wires stiffness and bulk etc.
Would
> > > > it be safe to use some 1.5 T&E round flex from the
chocolate
> > > > block to the socket instead of the 2.5 T&E ?
> > > >
> > > > Oh, and before someone quotes "part P"... its
all done with
> > > > the "old" wiring scheme so... "its been
like that for years,
> honest"
> > > >
> > > > TIA
> > > >
> > > > Marcus
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> Yahoo! Groups Links
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