Re: [OT] : wiring sockets ??

[Andrew Kilgore <andrew.kilgore@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hi,

Firstly, I'm not an electrician either - qualified or not ;o)
(But my dad is!)

The only thing I can possibly help you with is the rating of the
connector block.
As far as I understand it, if an appliance on a ring circuit is
drawing (say) 30 amps, then 15 amps are drawn along one side of the
ring and 15 amps down the other side. So, all you should need is a
connector block capable of handling 15 amps (or half the rating of the
fuse used to protect te circuit).

Can anyone back this up or dismiss it as utter nonsense...?

Many thanks,
Andy.

On 7/19/05, Hawes,Timothy Edward (GEG) <haweste@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Marcus,
>
> Firstly, I'm not a qualified electrician etc.
>
> When I recently re-wired some sockets (before Part P too - what a
> coincidence ;-)  ) I separated out a double socket into two singles
and
> a fused spur. I put one ring cable into the first socket, then used
> another piece of 2.5mm T&E to loop from the back of the first
socket
> into the spur, then another 2.5mm T&E loop from the spur to the
next
> socket where I also connected the "other" half of the ring.
Does that
> make sense? Essentially I just continued the ring through my 3
devices,
> where I used to have a single (but 2-gang) socket.
>
> I know the type of sockets you mean, but haven't seen any in detail. I
> used 30A chock bloc connectors and they only just fitted into a 47mm
> single gang box :-(
> AFAIK you can use 1.5mm T&E, BUT you have to derate the cable and
> protect with the appropriate fuse, however, I don't proclaim to know
the
> regs inside out so there may be something that prohibits you any way.
>
> I can send you a sketch off-list of how I wired mine if interested - a
> picture's worth a thousand words and all that, just let me know :-)
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tim.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Marcus Warrington
> >
> > Sorry to be off topic but I wonder if some of the
"sparks" on
> > the list could give me some advise..
> >
> > I have some kitchen under cupboard sockets that are
> > surface/wall mounted stainless steel wedges... (see tlc-direct)
> >
> > When I came to wire them up (last night) I discovered that
> > the two sockets are completely separate (unlike a
> > conventional double socket were the one set of connectors
> > feed both sockets). Unfortunately I had the kitchen rewired
> > with the expectation of having under cupboard mounted sockets
> > so the ring mains wire just loops out of the wall under each
> > cupboard and there are no pattress' in the wall etc. The lack
> > of space behind these sockets means that the only way I could
> > see of wiring then was to use a connector block to complete
> > the ring and the drop two lengths of wire (spur) from the
> > block, one to each socket.
> >
> > Two questions..
> >
> > 1) What rating of connector block is required to join a ring
> > main ? I have used a 30 amp connector block but its a little
> > big really and if possible using a 20amp would give more room
> > behind the socket and allow a better fit against the wall.
> > There is not enough space to use one of those plastic
> > circular connectors so I've had to use one of the "chocolate
> > block" style and then wrap it up in 2 or 3 layers of
> > insulation tape.. is this OK ?
> >
> > 2) Using 2.5 T&E for each "spur" (from the
chocolate block)
> > to each socket also made it very difficult to get everything
> > onto the wall due to the wires stiffness and bulk etc. Would
> > it be safe to use some 1.5 T&E round flex from the chocolate
> > block to the socket instead of the 2.5 T&E ?
> >
> > Oh, and before someone quotes "part P"... its all done
with
> > the "old" wiring scheme so... "its been like that
for years, honest"
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Marcus
>
>
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