RE: [OT] : wiring sockets ??

["Hawes,Timothy Edward \(GEG\)" <haweste@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Marcus,

Firstly, I'm not a qualified electrician etc.

When I recently re-wired some sockets (before Part P too - what a
coincidence ;-)  ) I separated out a double socket into two singles and
a fused spur. I put one ring cable into the first socket, then used
another piece of 2.5mm T&E to loop from the back of the first socket
into the spur, then another 2.5mm T&E loop from the spur to the next
socket where I also connected the "other" half of the ring. Does
that
make sense? Essentially I just continued the ring through my 3 devices,
where I used to have a single (but 2-gang) socket.

I know the type of sockets you mean, but haven't seen any in detail. I
used 30A chock bloc connectors and they only just fitted into a 47mm
single gang box :-(
AFAIK you can use 1.5mm T&E, BUT you have to derate the cable and
protect with the appropriate fuse, however, I don't proclaim to know the
regs inside out so there may be something that prohibits you any way.

I can send you a sketch off-list of how I wired mine if interested - a
picture's worth a thousand words and all that, just let me know :-)

Cheers,

Tim.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marcus Warrington
>
> Sorry to be off topic but I wonder if some of the "sparks"
on
> the list could give me some advise..
>
> I have some kitchen under cupboard sockets that are
> surface/wall mounted stainless steel wedges... (see tlc-direct)
>
> When I came to wire them up (last night) I discovered that
> the two sockets are completely separate (unlike a
> conventional double socket were the one set of connectors
> feed both sockets). Unfortunately I had the kitchen rewired
> with the expectation of having under cupboard mounted sockets
> so the ring mains wire just loops out of the wall under each
> cupboard and there are no pattress' in the wall etc. The lack
> of space behind these sockets means that the only way I could
> see of wiring then was to use a connector block to complete
> the ring and the drop two lengths of wire (spur) from the
> block, one to each socket.
>
> Two questions..
>
> 1) What rating of connector block is required to join a ring
> main ? I have used a 30 amp connector block but its a little
> big really and if possible using a 20amp would give more room
> behind the socket and allow a better fit against the wall.
> There is not enough space to use one of those plastic
> circular connectors so I've had to use one of the "chocolate
> block" style and then wrap it up in 2 or 3 layers of
> insulation tape.. is this OK ?
>
> 2) Using 2.5 T&E for each "spur" (from the chocolate
block)
> to each socket also made it very difficult to get everything
> onto the wall due to the wires stiffness and bulk etc. Would
> it be safe to use some 1.5 T&E round flex from the chocolate
> block to the socket instead of the 2.5 T&E ?
>
> Oh, and before someone quotes "part P"... its all done with
> the "old" wiring scheme so... "its been like that for
years, honest"
>
> TIA
>
> Marcus