RE: Re: Sky+ at node zero

["Paul" <p-gale@xxxxxxx>]

> Whats the second slave enclosure for?  The two UCM's?



The second enclosure gives another 16 inputs and outputs (with an
additiona=
l LEM - local expansion module). The two UCM's - one for connecting
Comfort=
to a PC running ACE (software to connect all the bits together - www.custo=
mautomationtech.com) and the other to connect directly to HomeVision. This
=
gives more redundancy and fault tolerance if the PC or software should
fail=
.


>Now *this* is exactly what I want.  How does the Smartfit connect to=20
>the CH and hot water system?  From the Comfort web site, it looks=20
>like something is placed beside the HW tank.  What about the
existing=20
>CH timer/controller?  Does Smartfit replace this, or work alongside=20
>it?  What wiring is required between node zero, CH=20
>boiler/timer/controller, and HW tank?  My main concern just now is=20
>wiring.

=20

Smartfit is actually a central heating system from Honeywell. The SmartFit
=
UCM is a special communication module that attaches directly to the
SmartFi=
t heating system and controls it/reports back to Comfort (Hot water and
roo=
m temp values). Programming it directly in Comfort is a bit limited IMO
but=
if you have another system or software connected to Comfort, the possibili=
ties are endless (control via HomeVision, schedules, web, IR, telephone,
WA=
P etc). SmartFit is based on a low voltage control system (I used Cat5e)
bu=
t does mean replacing your current control/room unit. I did this myself
(as=
with everything) and it took less than a day to replace the two H/W and He=
ating valves and Room unit, although I'd already previously run Cat5e to
th=
e places needed (simply one cable from the main SmartFit unit to cyclinder
=
sensor, each valve, room unit and mains power to the boiler). Look on the
C=
omfort web site for PDF's and other docs that show the wiring and other
use=
ful info.



> At least one PIR in every room (something like 18 rooms/areas)
> How are the PIR's wired to node zero?  Cat5?



No - I used 8 core screened alarm cable (see other posts including Keith's)

=20


> Extron video matrix switcher (composite and stereo)
>This looks interesting?  Which model do you have? MAV 44 SV looks=20
>good - it will switch 4 S-video inputs to 4 S-video outouts.  Who=20
>supplied it?  I assume you connect the Kat5 TX modules to the output=20
>of the Extron?



MAV128 - 12 COMPOSITE inputs and 8 outputs with stereo audio, all
controlla=
ble by the front panel or RS232. It also allows 'audio breakaway' which
mea=
ns you can switch the audio separately from the video signals, so if you
ha=
ve sources that are video only, you can use their stereo components to
swit=
ch other audio only sources - very flexible, excellent bit of kit. I
didn't=
need higher quality as this only for CCTV and video to other areas around =
the house (AV Room has the high quality plasma, DVD fed via RGB/YUV). I
bou=
ght it trade from RGB comms (something like =A31500).


>What if not all of your TV's have S-video?  For example, I have a=20
>portable for the kitchen that just has an RF input and a scart=20
>input.  Only the larger MAV 168 will work for both S-video and=20
>composite.



SCART can cope with RGB, S-Video and Composite - It's up to the kit what
fo=
rmats it supports though. I think Keith has answered this one but to back
h=
im up, his EXCELLENT Kat5 units can handle it (I use them for composite
vid=
eo and stereo distribution) - another =A310 you owe me Keith ;)


> Whole-house audio
>How is this distributed?  How are the sources controlled remotely.



I bought a Kustom KHS6640 multi-source, multi-room amp from the US - it
has=
IR dist through the wall controllers.

=20


> Various video sources including Sky+ and Sky (freeview)
>How do you control these remotely?  Kat5 doesnt have IR just yet -=20
>thats why I was looking at the IP Homenet solution.



Again - through the Kustom wall controllers (and IR codes setup for other
s=
tuff like controlling all the house lights - that's really cool ).


> 5 CCTV cameras
>What wiring is used for these?



They came with 50m integrated coax and power cables.


>Do you need the Comfort *ands* the Homevision?  Or, put another way,=20
>what does Homevision do that Comfort doesnt?



There's been quite a lot of posts here and on other groups about this in
th=
e past. They really are complimentary - Comfort is a very good alarm
system=
with HA features, HV is a very powerful and flexible HA controller but you=
wouldn't use it as a serious alarm system. Comfort's HA capability is pret=
ty limited which is why HV is ideal with it. I have Comfort connected
direc=
tly to HV via serial - My HV schedule looks for Comfort status codes etc
to=
know what state the alarm and heating is in and then does what it needs to=
do i.e. When the alarm is set to away mode, my AV Room curtains close (whi=
lst bypassing the PIR for the time it takes to close the curtains) etc,
etc=
...


>From whay I understand, LD11's require a twin and earth to be run=20
>from
replaced by a momentary switch.  Is there any other change required=20
to the light wiring?



Yes - this was quite a pain, especially effectively re-wiring the whole
hou=
se. I left the ceiling roses and wiring in place and ran extra T+E from
the=
light switches to one of the lofts where my 3 54way Hager enclosures are. =
It was complicated to get my head around as I also put in a lot of new
circ=
uits (bedside lights and switches etc) which had different wiring layouts
t=
o the 'modified' circuits.

=20


> several phone lines distributed via Cat5e patch panels
>What sort of rack do you have?=20=20



19" rack cabinet, something like 5ft high - see pics on my gallery
site bel=
ow...


>What do I need to look for when sourcing a phone-to-cat5 patch=20
>panel?  I assume you would wire this in-series:  BTMaster->Comfort-
>patch-panel.



I used a standard Cat5e patch panel (well 3 x 48 way panels). The main
anal=
ogue phone line goes through Comfort (required) and out to another Master
s=
ocket - this then is wired through to the patch panel in parallel. I can
th=
en patch the line to any outlet. I didn't think this would be useful as I
h=
ave DECT phones - but it is pretty flexible esp for fax etc.


>I'm getting an electrician (plus helper) in.  It has to be done in 5=20
>days, since he goes on holiday afterwards :-(  But this is really=20
>only for the wiring.  I can spend time afterwards connecting it all=20
>up.



I had an electrician friend help me for a week solid - most sparkies have
n=
ever come across X10 though, so that may take some explaining.=20



>For cbus, what wiring is required to each light switch?  What is=20
>rerequired at node zero?



Others here can talk to you about CBus - it needs Cat5 or other LV cabling
=
to the light switches I believe and then the dimmer/control units at Node0
=
(or other more suitable position)


> Don't know if that's helped at all - feel free to ask more...
>Yes, this has been very helpful!
>It looks like I've got a lot of planning to do!

Took me months of planning but I still made mistakes and am still
programmi=
ng it all up - that's the most time consuming part - but an interesting
on-=
going hobby.

=20

Cheers,

=20

Paul.=20



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