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Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!
- To: "'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'" <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
- Subject: Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!
- From: "Brown, Andy [Infrastructure]" <AndyB@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 14:29:15 -0000
- Delivered-to: rich@xxxxxxx
- Delivered-to: listsaver-egroups-ukha_d@xxxxxxx
- Mailing-list: contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
- Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Thanks Mike,
this is the same set up as the diagram for the brass push buttons on your
web-site right?
(http://www.letsautomate.com/brass.cfm?cfid=18683&cftoken=27584)
Where the P must be wired to the LD10, presumably I'm going to have to find
an independent constant live source for this? (i.e. I'm not going to be
able
to use cabling that forms part of the existing light setup). Otherwise,
the
LD10 won't get signals to turn on the voltage I guess!. Still getting my
head round this, but I think I'm there! As a general comment, there
doesn't
seem to be a glut of technical information on these modules (or is it me
being dumb?)
Thanks
Andy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Huggins [SMTP:mikeh@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 1:11 PM
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: [ukha_d] Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!
>
> Hi
>
> I'll try and explain:
>
> P = Positive
> N = Neutral
>
> Existing wiring:
>
> P -> Light switch -> Light -> N
>
> New wiring:
>
> P -> LD10 -> N
> P -> Light Switch -> LD10 -> Light -> N
>
> It's really easy, but teh only slight problem is the LD10 must have P
> wired
> to it too
>
> You should also note that the LD10 does not transmit X10 when it is
turned
> on (so HomeVision wouldn't know whether the light was on or not). But
of
> course it will react to X10 signals
>
> Mike
> www.letsautomate.com
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Brown, Andy [Infrastructure] <AndyB@xxxxxxx>
> To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
> Sent: 10 January 2000 13:47
> Subject: [ukha_d] Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!
>
>
> > I'm still not completely clear on how to fit an AD10 so a diagram
and
> some
> > idiot proof instructions for fitting would be great. I'd have to
> replace
> > our current dimmer switches with some push button ones (e.g. the
brass
> ones
> > from letsautomate). Can this be done with existing wiring?
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Andy
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Raymond [SMTP:Reb.barnett@xxxxxxx]
> > > Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 1:02 PM;
> > > To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
> > > Subject: [ukha_d] Re: The wife don't like my LW10 !!!
> > >
> > > If you don't want to dim the lights, and AD10 does the job
nicely:
> > >
> > > Wire the AD10 L and N supply to the common live and neutral.
Take the
> > > switched live that feeds the light fitting and feed it
instead to the
> > > local control input for the AD10.
> > > Then connect the switched output from the AD10 to the light
fitting.
> > >
> > > It's a lot easier than it sounds, perhaps a diagram would be
of more
> > > use? Basically though, you leave the old two way switch
wiring in
> place,
> > > since all that does is allow two switches to provide a
single on-off,
> > > then wire that to the local control of the AD10.
> > >
> > > It means that when we move, 10 minutes fiddling in the loft
and the
> > > light fitting will be completely standard again!
> > >
> > > Ray.
> > >
> > > > >Not much details are known yet about the eventual
replacement of
> the
> > > > >LW10U. 2-way switching (eg. for stairs) could be
one of the
> > > > improvements.
> > > >
> > > > How do folks handle that at the moment? Is it a
horrendous
> > > > kludge or is
> > > > there a simple way that I can't see to allow X-10 to
force on
> > > > or force off
> > > > the light, without using 2 modules...
> > > >
> > >
> > >
>
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