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Re: Central Vac overload
"Ian Shef" <invalid@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:Xns9D4D82A42AD60vaj4088ianshef@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> jamesgangnc <jamesgangnc@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in news:b4f81cd1-dad7-4e35-85a3-
> 3f5a99ce0cb4@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx:
>
> <snip>
> >
> > Somebody else answered that once already. Basically it's not moving a
> > bunch of air so it's not "working" any more. Now that you know the
> > current you should able to design a circuit that alarms at the 8 amp
> > range and is off at the 12 amp range. A 1/4ohm power resistor will
> > give you about a 1 volt variation between the two.
>
> And don't forget a delay or other override to handle the situation on
startup
> and shutdown as you pass through the range getting to 12 amps.
Good point. In a home automation controller progam that could likely be
solved by taking action only if the amperage drop persisted for over three
seconds. There are times when a vacuum will suck in the end of a drape or
something large enough to block the tube obviously but temporarily. I think
it might be helpful to have Art's valve working in those cases because the
relief would open up and whatever was stuck would just fall away.
Considering how complicated this little exercise has become, it makes me
wonder what's really going on in Toyota's fly-by-wire system and whether
they truly did cover all the potential "exceptions" that might occur. We
may never know now that every scam artist who happens to own or have access
to a Toyota is looking for a quick buck or a new car by claiming "runaway."
Thanks for your input, Ian.
--
Bobby G.
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