Re: CFLs flicker when Wall Swtich WS467 is OFF

["Jim Hewitt" <jim.hewitt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

"Charles Sullivan" <cwsulliv@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:47d54572$0$24080$4c368faf@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> On Sun, 09 Mar 2008 19:19:46 -0700, Gadgets wrote:
>
>> On Mar 5, 4:43 pm, "Jim Hewitt" <jim.hew...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>> Howdy,
>>>
>>> I've been slowlyg trying CFLs in the house to see if they work OK wtih
>>> our X10 installation. We've decided that the quality of light is
>>> acceptable for the energy $ savings.
>>>
>>> But, when I put some (N:Vision from Home Depot) 60W CFLs in the kids'
>>> room overehad light, controlled by a WS467, everything was fine until I
>>> turned the lights off. They don't go fully off! We get a very low
>>> light flicker, probably 5-10 times a second. I triple-checked, the
>>> wall switch was not dimming the lights.
>>>
>>> Is this a result of the current sense (for local control)? If so,
>>> would the standard mode for disabling current sense stop this?
>>>
>>> It is doubtful that the kids would sleep well with this annyong
>>> flicker, but also likely that it would also damage the CFL electronics
>>> eventually.
>>>
>>> Thank you for any input. Or for pointing me to a more appropriate
>>> group.
>>>
>>> Jim
>>
>> Yup, disable the current sensing (local control) and the lights will
>> stop flickering. Been there done that!  :-)
>
> Not quite!  The WS467 is only a two-wire device.  To disable the current
> which causes the CFL flickering would remove power from the WS467
> circuitry and prevent it from being turned on remotely. (The WS467 does
> not have "local sensing" as the term is generally understood for plug-in
> lamp modules.)
>
> The OP needs to replace the WS467 with a wall switch designed for
> fluorescent lamps.  Note that these all require having a neutral wire in
> the switchbox, and generally operate with a relay, so there will be an
> audible click when they're turned on or off.

Yes, another poster (or maybe you earlier) already discussed the two-wire
aspect.  No power, no workie.

For some of the switches I can easily try the trick of a low wattage
incandescent bulb in parallel.  For the others,  the fixture has two bulbs -
for now I'll just try one bulb of each type.  Less than half the energy
savings, but better than none.

I can disable the local dimming feature (which I had to mod te enable) and
can train the kids to NOT dim via the remote [or take away the palm remote
and only let them use the stick-a-switch without dimming control].  They can
hear the wall switch start to buzz (better than I can!) when the dimming
happens so I think they'll stay on top of that.

So, unless we get some spurious dimming, and the wall switches stay on at
100% level, I'm thinking this will be OK.  If you know another reason why it
wouldn't be OK, please let me know.   While I'd rather not buy new switches,
I'd much more rather not have to buy a new house or get new kids.

Thanks again.

Jim