Re: XPS3 Strangeness

["BruceR" <razrbruce@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

 David White wrote:
> BruceR wrote:
>>  David White wrote:
>>> BruceR wrote:
>>>> David,
>>>> Your assumptions about the SignalLinc & Booster are correct. The
>>>> Booster is a repeater and the Coupler is a passive connection.  Try
>>>> turning on your oven to see if control is any better - the oven
>>>> acts like a passive bridge.
>>> Thanks Bruce,
>>>
>>> I tried turning on the oven and that seems to make no difference. I
>>> also tried turning on my 240V shop heater in the garage to see.
>>> Again, no difference. I will try my dryer too but I suspect that I
>>> will get the same result.
>>>
>>> So it looks like an amplifier along with a bridge will be required.
>>
>> You could also try X10's recommendation which is a .01mfd 600vdc
>> capacitor across the two legs as a cheapie coupler but the benefit
>> may be limited and the capacitor may explode (guess how I know that).
>> The expense of installing a 220 outlet should be no more than an
>> hour of an electrician's time, particularly if it's located next to
>> the panel. You might also be able to easily do it by your shop
>> heater. As for Bill's recommendation to simply dump your X10 stuff, I
>> dumped
>> most of mine before the XTB was available in favor of Insteon.
>> Insteon works very well and is dual mode with X10 which makes
>> transitioning easier. However, now that the XTB is available, I put
>> all the old X10 stuff in my second home and reliability is equal to
>> Insteon so far.  Had the XTB-IIR been available before I bought the
>> Insteon stuff I wouldn't have had to change.  I still use an XTB-IIR
>> with the combined Insteon/X10 installation at my primary home.
>>
>>
>
> Thanks Bruce but I think I will pass on the exploding capacitor. I
> have enough worries already :-).
>
> I have also tested my setup with the dryer running and see no
> improvement that way either. So I guess that the coupler/repeater will
> be required.
>
> There is one more cheapo alternative I might try though. Since the
> garage interior lights and outlets are on different power supplies and
> my testing has shown that the mini controller works from a different
> location that is on the same supply as the lights, I could just move
> the garage outlets to a different breaker that is on the same side as
> the lights. This might work because my other stuff seems to work fine.

That may work for awhile but you risk throwing off the balancing in your
panel. With the same effort you could add the 220v outlet and be done
with it.