Re: Security System

[Frank Olson <Use_the_email_links@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Mr. Gibbage wrote:

> Thanks for the very informative post.  I am seriously considering
> going this route (ELK).

As I mentioned already in this thread, the panel has yet to be UL
Listed.  You may wish to wait.


> Unfortunately, I am kinda stuck with
> installing the security system that the builder chooses.

The builder has obviously "struck a deal" with an alarm company.
There's probably a serious "markup" on the equipment.  I would suggest a
more subtle approach.  Ask him how much the equipment and free
monitoring is worth, then tell him your needs are above and beyond the
capability of the equipment being provided and that you'll "complete"
that part of the contract for yourself.  Be prepared to "give a little"
back.  You have to remember that he's marked up the installation and may
wish to retain that profit.


> I don't mind
> ripping it out and replacing it with a system of my own.  I do have a
> few questions still:
> 1.  The system that he is installing comes with a year of free
> monitoring.  If I install a different system, will I still be a ble to
> use the free (and paid for) monitoring?  (Not really a show
> stopper--I'm just curious.)

Probably.  It depends on how flexible the terms of the agreement are.


> I assume that all the security system
> does is call a pre-programmed number, so the guy at the other end
> probably doesn't care what system on my end made the call. Or does the
> system pass some kind of data to the monitoring service that my new
> system would have to understand.  Do I need more information about the
> system that the builder is installing for you to answer these
> questions?

It would be helpful, yes.  Be careful about any contract you may be
required to sign.  It could be a three year term with the first year
taken care of by the builder.  In this instance, you have the option of
not accepting they system (unless, of course, you've already signed the
contract).  You can't be "forced" into signing any sort of binding
agreement.  Make sure you read the "fine print"!


> 2.  The sensor switches at the doors and windows--I assume that these
> are probably nothing more than simple normally open or normally closed
> swtiches, right?  I envision that some security systems are designed
> with NO switches and some are desigend with NC switches.  I do not
> know what my system will use.  Is the ELK smart enough to use either
> type?  I'd really like to use the installed switches.  I see this as a
> definite go/no-go for me.  If I can't use the installed switches, then
> I really won't be able to do this.

I can pretty well guarantee that the switches are NO.  That means that
with the door/window closed, the contact is closed.  The M1 can be
programmed to handle "end-of-line" zones (usually associated with NC
reed switches that are "open" when the door/window's closed) or
non-end-of-line zones.


> 3.  Obviuosly, the switches all terminate at the actual security
> system ("black box" from my OP).  From there, there must be some type
> of wiring that connects the system to the remote keypads.  How is that
> typically done.  Most likely, where the builder is putting his
> keypads,  will want to put my own keypad/touchpad.  What are the
> chances that I will be able to use his wiring for this?

There won't be a problem.  I always run two 22/4's to each keypad, but
the installing company may only run one in this instance.


> What should I
> ask to builder to put in the area of the keypads?  RG6? CAT5? 120 VAC?

You could ask him to run two 22/4's to each keypad.  You won't need
anything else.


> Same goes for the area where the security system panel is mounted.

You're going to need access to unswitched/unburdened 120VAC for panel
power.  If you're considering using the same closet he's mounting the
control unit in as a HA termination cabinet, you may want to lay out a
few runs of CAT6/CAT5/RG6 to each room for sound/network/TV, etc.
Several individuals in this Group can make suggestions in this regard.
You may also want to consider wiring runs for cameras.


> 4.  Last question.  I would also like to install a camera or two.
> Perhaps one at the front door.  What type of camera and wiring will
> best work? RG6? CAT5?

CAT5/RG59U/18-2LVT for each camera location.  This gives you the ability
to choose any camera system out there.


> Will I need power there too?  What is the best
> way to use and implement a front door camera?  I'd love to be able to
> push a button on a remote control for any tv or open a window on any
> computer in the house or see on the touch screens and see who is at
> the door.

Home run everything to a central closet.  Put a couple of runs of
CAT5/CAT6/RG6 to each room and you'll have that ability as your budget
allows.  BruceR has the best home made solution wiring closet I've ever
seen.  I'm modelling mine after his.  :-)

Feel free to email me if you need more info on the M1.  Good luck!!

Frank Olson
http://www.yoursecuritysource.com