Re: Wiring panel for living area

["Dennis" <djr-google.djrlar@xxxxxxxx>]

Hi Robert,

Thanks for the ideas, they are what I was looking for. I am considering
both the multi-channel amplifier approach, although I don't see a need
for the multiple inputs on them, fed from an AV 5.1/7.1 receiver, or an
A-bus system with the same AV receiver.  Do you know of any A-BUS zone
controls that have more then the 6 watts/channel that I am finding?

It's also not clear from what I have read if I could find an AV
receiver with the A-BUS interface built in, including the IR control of
the source switching without the need to use the stick on IR emitters.
It seems like a natural configuration, but so far I haven't seen one.

Thanks
Dennis


Robert L Bass wrote:
> Hi Dennis,
>
> I've done a fair number of sound systems over the years.  Here's how I like to
> do it.  YMMV.
>
> In or adjacent to the HT room install a thru-wall rack (Middle Atlantic builds
> some of the best on the market).  I like to make the rack at least 50 units
> (75") high.  A nearby closet is the best location since you can open the door to
> access the rear of the rack when you need to work on something.
>
> All speaker cables terminate inside the rack closet.  Amplifiers are normally
> installed on shelves inside the closet with only those devices (DVD player,
> receiver, etc.) requiring front panel access in the rack itself.
>
> If your room or your wife won't permit a rack, then route your cables to one or
> more triple-gang mud rings behind the armoire where your gear will reside.
> Install face plates (OnQ, Leviton, and Russound are several good makes which I
> sell; Niles is another good brand which I don't sell) with binding posts for
> each speaker cable.  Connect the amps to the posts using short runs of cable
> with banana plugs (same brand array) on each end.
>
> If you were going to install a multi-zone system such as Russound CAV66 or
> Xantech MRC88 you would connect the speakers and remote keypads directly to the
> controller.  If you only need speakers and volume controls, say for a 1-zone
> system, you can splice multiple speakers together behind the wall and pigtail
> them to a single left and right jack.  If you do that, be sure the pigtail cable
> and connectors are of sufficient gauge to handle the combined load.  Impendence
> matching volume controls will allow you to connect multiple speakers to a single
> amp.
>
> For the surround system, wire each speaker to a single jack behind the armoire
> or, if you have a rack, directly to the appropriate output of the receiver.  If
> you're using a powered subwoofer, don't forget to run a line level ("RCA") cable
> from the receiver to the wall behind the sub.
>
> A friend used to build custom speaker cabinets for my installations.  One of our
> favorite ways to trick out a job was to install a subwoofer between the floor
> joists in the basement beneath a first floor listening room.  If there was a
> wooden floor we'd cut an opening for the sound and fit it with a stained oak air
> vent designed for floor use.  Below the insert we'd stretch black speaker cloth.
> This was usually installed near the front of the room, off to one side of the TV
> screen.  I'd power the subwoofer from a pro stage amp in the stack.  If there
> wasn't a dedicated subwoofer output on the receiver (they weren't quite
> universal back then) I'd also install an active crossover between the pre-amp
> and the main.  The effect was terrific -- rich, powerful bass with nothing to
> see in the room.
>
> > Are there wiring panels for bringing all the wires involved in
> > a whole house sound system, as well as the surround
> > speakers in the main listening area into a nice connection
> > panel in the main living area where the equipment will be?
>
> There are a plethora of structured wiring panels on the market, most of which
> include optional connections for whole house sound systems.  The problem is they
> don't really do anything for your sound system.  It's usually better to connect
> source equipment, speakers, etc., directly to the receiver or multi-room
> amplifier.  If you want to control the system from various locations throughout
> the home, consider one of the multi-zone systems I mentioned above.  I sell
> those brands so I'm kind of biased in their favor but they are very good quality
> and (I think) fairly priced.
>
> If you only want a single-zone system, you really won't benefit from utilizing
> any of the wiring cabinets.
>
> > At first I was going to run them all into the utility room into
> > the panels there for the other structured wiring, but the
> > more I think about it, the more this sounds like the wrong
> > approach.  There's going to be a lot of wires, from the AV
> > surround sound receiver, and/or a multi-channel amplifier,
> > etc that will need to be connected to all those speaker
> > wires hopefully in a neat concealed panel somehow.
>
> You could run the wires to the utility room but it really won't make things any
> better for you.  In audio design there's a saying that the best system is a
> "straight wire with gain".  The point is that the less you do to the system
> (less connection points, less "treatment" of the sound, etc.) the better the
> final result will be.  It's the same reason I disagree with those who insist on
> using baluns and CAT5 to bring A/V signals from one place to another unless
> there's a great distance between them.
>
> > Any ideas/approaches appreciated.
>
> If you'd like to discuss your plans at length, feel free to contact me.  I'm
> usually around during the day and most weekend mornings.
>
> --
>
> Regards,
> Robert L Bass
>
> Bass Burglar Alarms
> The Online DIY Store
> http://www.BassBurglarAlarms.com
>
> --
>
> Never underestimate the power of very stupid people in large groups.