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Re: troubleshooting old alarm, worked perfectly till this am....



Ok... that is why I keep asking if removing the wires from the panel will e=
liminate the potential problems of there being something wrong at the conta=
ct or anywhere along the wiring to the panel....=20
my thought had been, the if I disconnect the wire at the panel (now looks l=
ike it won't work as easily because it looks like the window wires are wire=
d together (to make a "zone"?) and wired to a half of a wire from who knows=
 what....) it might show exactly which window is the problem... right?
is there still a way to do this? or would doing this not show a contact/wir=
e is the problem? the upstairs windows are the least likely point of entry,=
 I would be comfortable, until I can do more, with being able to arm all th=
e downstairs areas (though, it might turn out one of them is the problem, t=
he "closed then open" issue happened when I first put the south bedroom win=
dow back in, showed green for a while then red again)
digging the glue out of the track, taking the "contact" apart looks like mo=
re work than I have had time for for several days, and more work to put bac=
k together than detaching the wire at the panel.... or not?
=20






On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 11:42:40 AM UTC-7, Bob La Londe wrote:
> "JoeRaisin" <joeraisin2001@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message=20
> news:mol1vm$lq2$1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Opposite the magnet, there will be a contact.  If you remove it from th=
e=20
> > door/window frame, it will be connected to two wires.
> >
> > When the contact is in proximity to the magnet, the tiny reed switch=20
> > creates a "short".
> >
> > By removing the wires from the contact and shorting them together by=20
> > twisting the bare copper ends together, you will mimic the action of a=
=20
> > properly functioning contact with the window closed.
>=20
> As old as his system is there is not telling if that's the case.


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