Re: More alarm questions.

["Robert L Bass" <RobertLBass@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

<JediSpork@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:10ce0784-eced-4d6b-b527-b3b698280142@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>I decided to try out one of the glass breaks last night.  I left it
>on
> max sensitivity while watching movies with the stereo turned up to
> a
> fair volume. Working ok for me so far.
>
> I gave it the test by banging on the patio door and shaking my keys
> and was able to set it off once with that method. What did easily
> set
> it off for me was when I moved it and sat it on the table. I
> realize
> they are normally not moved but if a vibration like that can set it
> off I'm worried about thunderstorms.

Thunder can set them off if it's especially strong or if the
glassbreak is too sensitive.  However, the physical vibration you
delivered by moving the device was probably many times the amount it
would sustain when there's lightning outside.  I'veused glassbreaks
for many years on my own installations.  The IntelliSense (Honeywell)
models perform as well as or better than others I tried.  In
Connecticut thunderstorms weren't as frequent as they are in Sarasota
(daily during summer) but we got our fair share of them.  We
monitored hundreds of systems, most of them with glassbreaks.  When a
major T-storm came through we'd typically get a half dozen false
signals from whatever town was getting the brunt of the storm.

> My lynx does not have a night stay option. As I learn more about
> alarms I will take your advice and upgrade to the vista 20.

That's not a bad idea but do spend some time getting accustomed to
what you already have before you spend more money on an upgrade.

> Is programming fairly similar?

I haven't programmed a Lynx but the Vista-20 is fairly easy.

> Its a great relief to know that all these expensive wireless
> sensors will be compatible. Family would be very happy to receive
> my lynx when I do upgrade so its not exactly a waste of money
> either.

Sounds good but take your time so you know exactly what you want/need
before you change it out.

> I was still wondering what are the report codes for when adding
> transmitters?

If you use a central monitoring facility you can program what codes
are sent for the different types of alarm.  Most central stations
accept Ademco Contact ID (aka CID or Point ID) which has predefined
codes so you don't need to worry about that until you select a
monitoring center.  If/when you get it monitored you might want to
inquire if the company will set the parameters for you.  They'll
probably do it for free to get your business.  Just make sure they
agree NOT to lock you out of programming.  Some of them do that and
then refuse to give you the code even after you've fulfilled your
obligations to them.

> My system should be ready for monitoring in about 2 weeks once my
> phone line is installed and I'm happy with the glass breaks. Are
> there any ways to conceal the phone box? I thought about planting a
> few bushes in front of it. We have underground lines in our area.
> Another future project will be to install some kind of buzzer if
> the phone line is cut.

There are a number of ways to protect the phone line protector (aka
the "demarc").  You can cover it with a heavy-gauge metal box and
cover the wire with a U shaped protector made by VoiceLok.  That's a
simple and relatively effective but somewhat expensive solution.  If
the phone line is aerial you can lower the strain relief a bit,
reroute the drop wire in conduit and relocate the protector inside
the house if there's a good spot inside the wall.

If it's a buried cable and you have a basement you can dig around it
and run it through the wall a few inches below grade.  If you do that
insert a short piece of galvanised conduit in the hole and run the
cable through it so it's not in direct contact with the cement.  The
cable material *might* be impervious to cement but I prefer to err on
the side of caution.

If it's buried but there's no basement, relocate the protector inside
the wall (make it a little lower so you have anough cable to reach)
and run it in conduit from below grade.  Make a 2' square frame of
1x6 lumber around the conduit flush with the ground.  Fill it with 2"
of sand and 4" of cement, remove the frame and your phone line will
be fairly secure.

Note: All of the above stuff is against phone company tarrifs which
say that only they can mess with the drop.  However, once it's done
they never do anything about it (although they can and Olson, Morgan
or one of the others here will tell you stories about some fictional
customer whose phone was cut off and/or he got sued by Mark Sableman
for doing this.  :))

> If the alarm is tripped and the police come out how do they
> respond?

It varies from town to town and often even from one officer to the
next.  Just like anyone else, some police are dilligent and helpful.
Others are ... well, not.  I've heard police actually hanging around
to help an elderly customer understand his alarm.  I've also seen
cases where they left the premises without fully investigating even
though there was a clearly broken window and the thief was still
inside.

> I'm assuming they do some sort of walk around and check for forced
> entry. If everything appears safe and sound will they still break
> into your house to verify?...

No.

> I will be using alarm relay. I was also hoping that after calling
> the police the alarm company would contact me.

The procedure is usually the reverse.  First they call the premises.
Then, if there's no answer, they call the police.  Finally, they
start calling the list of responsible parties (the "keyholders").

> thanks again for taking the time to respond. I'm actually having a
> lot of fun while trying to make my home safer.

No problem.  Feel free to ask more.  After all, the newsgroup is for
sharing information about security systems.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

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Bass Home Electronics
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
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Customer Service 941-232-0791
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