Re: Elk M1G for Rehabbed House

["Norm Mugford" <1alarm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

And he is not entirely without complaints to the Better Business Bureau
Consumer Beware.......


<robertlbass@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1135310609.873984.310340@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> I have been looking into security panels for a few months and really like
>> the Elk M1G (sys4 package), but am not 100% sold on it.  I would like the
>> ability to have a fairly extensively automated home eventually (a/v,
>> lights, door latches, etc).  So, my first question is, would you go with
>> the Elk M1G?
>
> Yes.  I'm installing one in my new (to me) home, but I'm also an Elk
> Products dealer.  :^)
>
>> My next question moves on to what I should install for a basic system. We
>> have [lots of windows & doors]...
>
> The usual method is to install magnetic sensors (called "contacts") on
> the exterior doors and accessible windows.  These are simple switches
> that remain closed as long as the magnet is nearby.  When the door or
> window opens the magnet moves away, the circuit opens telling the M1
> Gold control panel that there's a problem.
>
> Magnetic contacts come in many shapes and sizes to fit almost any type
> of window.  Better brands include Sentrol, Ademco and GRI, among
> others.
>
>> What contact should I use for these?
>
> The choice will depend upon the specific windows you are using.  Most
> hollow vinyl and aluminum windows have limited space to insert the
> magnet so you may have to use a miniature, surface mount.  Most wood or
> wood core sashes can accomodate the magnet easily enough.  There are
> several new "rare earth" contacts which employ a very small magnet not
> much bigger than a shirt collar button.  These can be very useful in
> tight quarters.
>
> For most interior doors, you can use a 3/8" diameter, recessed contact
> such as Sentrol's model 1275.  If the door is a steel fire door, such
> as the one between the house and the garage, you can use a wide gap,
> surface model such as the Sentrol 1285TW.  If the local fire marshal
> approves, you can substitute a recessed steel door sensor such as
> Sentrol's 1078C.  Because you'd be making a hole in a rated fire door
> you should get approval first.  Most won't care but some can be a pain.
>
> I also like to bug the roll up garage doors.  Sentrol's 2202AU works
> well for this application.  Although it's designed to handle floor
> mounting, I like to put them above the door where rakes, shovels and
> other implements of destruction won't snare the wires.
>
> The Elk M1G will allow you to program a different delay period for the
> overhead door, followed by a shorter delay on the inside door to the
> house.  Not everyone agrees about protecting the garage door but I
> believe it's a good idea to keep the bad guys outside the perimeter,
> including the garage.
>
>> I'd prefer something not visible, unless the visibility really adds a lot
>> to deterent...
>
> There is some disagreement as to how much value visibility has.  You
> have to weigh the deterrent value against WAF factor*.  IMO a few
> well-placed window stickers will be more obvious to the thief than a
> tiny magnetic sensor inside a window.
>
>> Also, is there a good way of alarming the skylight?
>
> If your skylight is up a long "well" you can protect it with a motion
> detector.  There's a neat little "SPY" motion detector made by a
> company called Visonic which can be placed inside the skylight well.
> It's extremely small and fits in a small hole in the drywall.  As long
> as it's down far enough not to get direct sunlight on the detector's
> surface that should work very well.
>
> If the skylight is glass you could install a glass breakage detector in
> the room.  The better ones can cover a 25' radius.  This is another
> subject where there is debate though.  Some installers hate glass break
> detectors.  Some use them all the time.  I've installed lots of
> IntelliSense (now part of Honeywell) glass breaks with pretty good
> results.  They can false if there's a really intense thunderstorm
> directly overhead though.  Also, glass break detectors are not
> considered 100% secure.  Changes in the room (new furnishings, heave
> drapes, thick carpet, etc., can reduce their effective range.
>
>> It doesn't open and each pane is too small for human entry (plus they
>> would drop into the middle of the staircase).  I'm not sure what to do
>> about motion detectors as we plan to be getting a 100+ great dane and
>> already have a 65 pound shepherd mix (and a cat ).
>
> The motion detector that I mentioned above won't be affected by the
> dogs unless they can jump up into the well of the skylight.  It's more
> of a pinpoint protection device when used in this manner.  Other than
> that, with over 165 pounds of cainine running loose I would forget
> about using motion detectors.
>
>> One additional consideration pertains to the front door.  We have a small
>> entry way (3'x3') immediately inside the house with another, decorative
>> door inside.  Should we also arm that second door? ...
>
> No.  Just bug the outer door and if that's your primary entry point
> install a keypad in the little foyer.
>
>> We want to install a system that will be very effective both occupied and
>> vacant, but aren't in a position to invest in the most robust system
>> currently.  I want to plan for the future but protect today, if that
>> makes sense...
>
> The Elk is a modular system.  You can install what you need now and add
> features and expansion devices as time and budget allow.
>
>> Is there anything I have missed? Or should I say how much have I missed?
>> I debated a motion light in the back yard/alley, but have seen many
>> suggest that it is a waste of money.
>
> Motion lights are probably not much of a deterrent.  For one thing,
> most break-ins happen during the day.  Also, most thieves probably
> already know what they are.  The benefits of a motion light are
> convenience and a better "feeling" of security for the family.
> Presumably there have been cases where would-be thieves have been
> thwarted by a simple motion light.  But I doubt they make that much
> difference.  Use one if you like having a light come on when you go out
> there at night.
>
>> I know this is a lot to ask, but if anyone can offer insight on even one
>> of these areas, I'd be most appreciative.  Thanks for reading and I hope
>> to hear from you soon.
>
> No problem.  One purpose of the newsgroup is to share questions,
> answers and opinions about things like this.  Your query is on-topic
> and welcome.
>
> BTW, I mentioned several brand name products above.  Those are examples
> that may work for your application.  There are lots of competing brands
> that are also very good.  I sell these brands (and quite a few others)
> online so I'm not entirely without bias.
>
> Regards,
> Robert L Bass
> www.BassBurglarAlarms.com
>