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Re: Bathroom project - Cbus style lighting system....1 room only though!!


  • Subject: Re: Bathroom project - Cbus style lighting system....1 room only though!!
  • From: "noel_pilot" <HA@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 21:58:20 -0000

Hi Tim,=20

Good find!  What with this and the soft mod xbox topic it's been the
most exciting few days on here for me in ages! :)

So without wanting to complicate it toooo much.....supposing I wanted
to always have motion activated lights for the bathroom, but using
only one PIR I think I'm right in saying I could use two timer
switches, one on each parallel circuit both set to exactly opposite
times, i.e. full brightness circuit from 0600 - 2200, dimmed circuit
from 2200 to 0600.

Appreciate that means if the timers fail then im in the dark but my
main question is what would happen if both circuits are completed at
the same time?! that I'm guessing wouldn't be a good thing?!

Cheers

Noel



--- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "Tim" <timsyahoo@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Noel, glad you like it :-)
>=20
> Try this one:
> http://www.danlers.co.uk/pir/ceflpirsealed.html
> I've only just skim-read the description, but I think if you put the
> time-clock in the place of the "alternative switch" (see
wiring
diagrams)
> you'll avoid the lights always coming on for a minute or so when
they enter
> auto mode at night. Double check your wiring though to avoid breaking
> something...
>=20
> I forgot to mention I have my garage light - the one inside the
garage - on
> a PIR (not a Danlers PIR though) to avoid it being left on all the
time and
> it works very well.
>=20
>=20
> Also try http://www.cbus-shop.com/ for Cbus
gear.
>=20
> Good luck,
>=20
> Tim.
>=20
>=20
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [mailto:ukha_d@xxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of
> > noel_pilot
> > Sent: 29 September 2008 21:51
> > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > Subject: [ukha_d] Re: Bathroom project - Cbus style lighting
system....1
> > room only though!!
> >=20
> > Much as I'd love cbus the more I think about this, the smarter it
is!!
> >=20
> > I'm also thinking I could have either a second motion detector on
the
> > normal switched circuit to have motion activated lights all of
the
time.
> >=20
> > Can someone point me in the direction of these PIR's that will do
this
> > kind of job, i'm struggling with my search terms!
> >=20
> >=20
> > --- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "Tim Hawes" <timsyahoo@>
wrote:
> > >
> > > Noel,
> > >
> > > I'm sure a CBus solution would give great flexibility but
you're
> > > paying a lot of "overhead" if you only do one
room.
> > > I reckon you can do DIY the "dim night light on a
sensor" thing for
> > > around =A3100 =96 it won't be based on any fancy automation
though. I=
t
> > > also assumes that the lamps/transformers you already have
are
suitable
> > > for dimming.
> > > (it's based on a scheme I've been thinking about for my
bathroom, but
> > > I don't want the PIR bit)
> > >
> > > You'd run two parallel circuits from the existing ceiling
rose
to the
> > > light(s) you want to come on dimmed. One circuit is as now
=96
just the
> > > switch. The second circuit contains a time-clock (get an
electronic
> > > one so it doesn't drift in power cuts), a PIR (some
"nice"
> > > ceiling-mount ones around =A330-=A340) and a conventional
dimmer swit=
ch
> > > (conventional as in one you'd fit to a wall box but suitable
for
> > > dimming the type of lights you have).
> > >
> > > Your existing switch works at all times so if you get up
early to
> > > catch a plane etc you can still put the lights on full with
the
cord.
> > > The second circuit only works between the on/off times you
set (e.g.
> > > midnight to 5am). When the time clock is off the PIR output
doesn't go
> > > anywhere, when the time-clock is on the PIR switches on the
lights
> > > through the dimmer switch which you've manually set to get
the right
> > > light level.
> > >
> > > The only potential problem is that I've found PIRs always
come
on when
> > > power is first applied, then go off. So having it after the
time-clock
> > > means the light would always come on at midnight (or
whatever) when
> > > the clock circuit is activated. I couldn't see how keeping
it
powered
> > > 24/7 would only activate the light between set times.
> > >
> > > The time-clock and dimmer could go in the loft, or perhaps
in the
> > > airing cupboard to make adjustments that bit simpler. You'd
probably
> > > want to fit a master isolation switch in front of all the
smarts
too =96
> > > just to make sure the auto side of the circuit doesn't
unexpectedly
> > > become live if the clock gets out of sync. Fixed wiring
time-clocks
> > > are also available so you don't have to wire-in a separate
13A
socket
> > > for a plug-in jobby.
> > >
> > > I think that all makes sense, I don't *think* I missed
anything
> > > obvious, but you never know :-)
> > >
> > > If you're feeling *really* adventurous you could drop the
ceiling by
> > > 6", run rope light around the edge and have the rope
light come
on via
> > > the timer/sensor during the night. Or rope light under the
sink
and/or
> > > bath.
> > > Or perhaps just connect one of the 6 downlighters to the
auto/timer
> > > circuit and do away with the dimmer altogether.
> > >
> > > I shall now don my flameproof suit and ignore the cries of
heretic!!
> > >
> > > HTH,
> > >
> > > Tim.
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sun, Sep 28, 2008 at 12:23 PM, noel_pilot <HA@>
wrote:
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > I remember reading way back about someone who had a
lighting setup
> > > > whereby they have occupancy detection so lights come on
automatically
> > > > but with intelligence, i.e. if its 0200 only turn the
landing/bathroom
> > > > lights on to 15% or so so as not to blind you in your
sleepy
state!!
> > > >
> > > > I love this idea and would love to be able to replicate
it for
this
> > > > project.
>



------------------------------------


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