Re: Bathroom project - Cbus style lighting system....1 room only though!!

["noel_pilot" <HA@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Much as I'd love cbus the more I think about this, the smarter it is!!

I'm also thinking I could have either a second motion detector on the
normal switched circuit to have motion activated lights all of the time.

Can someone point me in the direction of these PIR's that will do this
kind of job, i'm struggling with my search terms!


--- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "Tim Hawes" <timsyahoo@...> wrote:
>
> Noel,
>=20
> I'm sure a CBus solution would give great flexibility but you're
> paying a lot of "overhead" if you only do one room.
> I reckon you can do DIY the "dim night light on a sensor"
thing for
> around =A3100 =96 it won't be based on any fancy automation though. It
> also assumes that the lamps/transformers you already have are suitable
> for dimming.
> (it's based on a scheme I've been thinking about for my bathroom, but
> I don't want the PIR bit)
>=20
> You'd run two parallel circuits from the existing ceiling rose to the
> light(s) you want to come on dimmed. One circuit is as now =96 just
the
> switch. The second circuit contains a time-clock (get an electronic
> one so it doesn't drift in power cuts), a PIR (some "nice"
> ceiling-mount ones around =A330-=A340) and a conventional dimmer
switch
> (conventional as in one you'd fit to a wall box but suitable for
> dimming the type of lights you have).
>=20
> Your existing switch works at all times so if you get up early to
> catch a plane etc you can still put the lights on full with the cord.
> The second circuit only works between the on/off times you set (e.g.
> midnight to 5am). When the time clock is off the PIR output doesn't go
> anywhere, when the time-clock is on the PIR switches on the lights
> through the dimmer switch which you've manually set to get the right
> light level.
>=20
> The only potential problem is that I've found PIRs always come on when
> power is first applied, then go off. So having it after the time-clock
> means the light would always come on at midnight (or whatever) when
> the clock circuit is activated. I couldn't see how keeping it powered
> 24/7 would only activate the light between set times.
>=20
> The time-clock and dimmer could go in the loft, or perhaps in the
> airing cupboard to make adjustments that bit simpler. You'd probably
> want to fit a master isolation switch in front of all the smarts too
=96
> just to make sure the auto side of the circuit doesn't unexpectedly
> become live if the clock gets out of sync. Fixed wiring time-clocks
> are also available so you don't have to wire-in a separate 13A socket
> for a plug-in jobby.
>=20
> I think that all makes sense, I don't *think* I missed anything
> obvious, but you never know :-)
>=20
> If you're feeling *really* adventurous you could drop the ceiling by
> 6", run rope light around the edge and have the rope light come
on via
> the timer/sensor during the night. Or rope light under the sink and/or
> bath.
> Or perhaps just connect one of the 6 downlighters to the auto/timer
> circuit and do away with the dimmer altogether.
>=20
> I shall now don my flameproof suit and ignore the cries of heretic!!
>=20
> HTH,
>=20
> Tim.
>=20
>=20
> On Sun, Sep 28, 2008 at 12:23 PM, noel_pilot <HA@...> wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I remember reading way back about someone who had a lighting
setup
> > whereby they have occupancy detection so lights come on
automatically
> > but with intelligence, i.e. if its 0200 only turn the
landing/bathroom
> > lights on to 15% or so so as not to blind you in your sleepy
state!!
> >
> > I love this idea and would love to be able to replicate it for
this
> > project.
>



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