Re: Re: Zoned Heating Control

[Chris Hunter <cjhunter@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

If the worry is wooden floors, then using a properly engineered=20=20
wooden floor could be an answer ... since SWMBO is so keen on wood=20=20
for our house, I think it's what we'll do ... at the recent show at=20=20
the NEC, we saw some of the ones from Warmawood, which could be worth=20=20
a look ...

Chris



On 15 Apr 2007, at 20:13, rb_ziggy wrote:

> Laurence
>
> If you are considering underfloor for some areas, I'd strongly
> recommend you use this as the whole solution (at least for the
> groundfloor). We used UF for our build (ground and first floors in our
> case) and it was the best decision we made - especially with a heavily
> insulated house. The quality of comfort is way better than rads. (Also
> consider  MHRV as a complement.)
>
> A word of caution on log burners and modern houses.  We have to open
> the windows and doors when ours is on, just cant loose the heat fast
> enough!  The problem with super insulation is that rooms really don't
> cool down fast enough - they seem to have a massive lag. It's almost
> like the heating just tops it up from time to time. Injecting 6/8/10Kw
> of a log burner just overloads everything!
>
> I wonder if there is a way of heating water with a log burner - I
> remember we had a back boiler in one at my parents and I seem to
> remember agas can do something similar.  Then you could have a dual
> boiler system - oil when no log burning etc.
>
> Good luck
>
> Richard
>
> --- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, Laurence Mason <laurence@...> wrote:
>>
>> We are building a large well insulated farm house and I would like
to
>> have a practical system for zoning the heating. My dream system
> would be:
>>
>> Separate zone for each room - we could consider ~20 zones
>> Individual override in each (or some) rooms
>> Central programming panel plus ability to do this via
browser=20=20
>> interface
>> Full seven day programming per zone
>> External temperature compensation
>> Wired system - not wireless - Radio amateur and do not want
> interference
>> either way
>> Unobtrusive valves as we will be fitting column radiators and want
to
>> achieve a look in keeping with them
>> One or two areas of underfloor heating
>> Learns thermal response of room ( we will have log burners in
three
>> rooms so not sure how this would affect the learning - and an aga
in
> the
>> kitchen)
>>
>> Now, we went to the self build / automation show the other
week,=20=20
>> which
>> was very interesting - it is some years since we last went. Still
>> waiting for some of the suppliers to sent us information - I
guess=20=20
>> they
>> must have a lot to catch up on.
>>
>> Talking to the automation people it appears there are a range of
>> solutions, some of which are very expensive - =A320K buys me a lot
of
>> heating oil!
>>
>> It would appear that the TRV body with the wired remote
control=20=20
>> head is
>> an economic way to control the flow of water in each of the
zones=20=20
>> - we
>> could even hide them in a cupboard or bathroom so they are
not=20=20
>> seen in
>> the main living rooms. It appears the major cost is in the
> controller or
>> are we missing something? In general we are not looking at
automating
>> the lights or sound so don't want to pay for a system to only use
> 10% of
>> it's power to control the heating - perhaps that is why some of
them
>> appear so expensive? We will want a monitored alarm system so
perhaps
>> that would help to offset the cost? We would cover the wiring and
> plumbing.
>>
>> So any suggestions on a sensible way forward or do I just fit
normal
>> TRVs in every room and spend a little more on oil each year?
The=20=20
>> house
>> is well insulated but it does seem wasteful to heat the
spare=20=20
>> room, for
>> example, to a normal temperature profile when we have no guests!
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Laurence
>>
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