Re: [OT] Reconfiguring Ringmain to garage.

["Thack" <staiger.yahoo001@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Have you considered simply "opening up" the existing ring
and inserting an
extra length to include your new 'sub-board'?  You would simply extend the
ring each time you wanted to expand the sub-board.  However, it's a lot of
bother.

Instead, do what I did, which is absolutely safe although it is not part of
the normal wiring practices.  Install your new spur, with as many sockets
as
you like, using a single 2.5mm cable (no need for a ring - I'll explain why
in a moment - but make it a ring if you prefer).

Bring it CLOSE to a convenient socket on the existing ring main, and
terminate it in a terminal block mounted on the wall.  Connect the
terminals
to a length of 13A FLEX (not cable), with a standard 13A plug on the end.
Plug the plug into an RCD adapter, and plug the adapter into the existing
ring main socket.

That gives you the best of all worlds.  You've left the existing ring main
untouched.  Your extra sockets are protected by an RCD.  You can isolate
your entire extra spur simply by unplugging it.  If/when you move house,
you
simply remove the length of flex so that the extra spur is completely
isolated and no-one can complain.

Note that the maximum you can draw from your extra spur is 13A (limited by
the plug fuse), which is why a single 2.5mm cable is adequate for the job.
13A is plenty for your collection of workshop tools.  If you need a fan
heater during the winter, plug it into the existing ring main so it doesn't
use up most of the capacity of the spur's 13A fuse.

This email will attract vigorous flaming from those who believe that the
IEE
wiring regs are the ONLY way to do anything.  But I challenge them to
demonstrate any safety or functional flaws in my approach.  In return I'll
demonstrate a potentially dangerous flaw in the ring main architecture!

Thack