RE: Replacing and automating the Central Heating switch

["Neil Ball" <neilball@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Sounds about right Gareth. If you Google for the manufacturer and model
number of your timer/programmer you may find the install instructions for
the unit and you can then double check the wiring requirements for your
particular system. If you have 2 separate 2-port valves, 1 each for heating
and hot water then it should be pretty much as you describe. If it's a
"Y"
plan type system where there is a single 3-port valve that allows heating
only, hot water only or both then you will need to look at the mid-position
valve actuator wiring diagram as it is slightly different to what you
describe. If you are struggling to find any info then post a few more
details & I'll take a look at what I can find for you.



I'd recommend you leave the programmer in place and wire the new outputs in
parallel - when you are happy your CBus operations work correctly you can
then simply set the programmer to off. That way you can very quickly swap
between original and new controls for testing/fault finding (which is
crucial if you have temperatures anything like we have up here in Scotland
just now, -8 degrees overnight the last few nights brrrrrr!).



Neil B.



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From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [mailto:ukha_d@xxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Gareth Cook
Sent: 01 February 2006 13:06
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: [ukha_d] Replacing and automating the Central Heating switch



Just wanted to clarify something here - I was thinking of CBUS'sing the
Heating system by just bypassing the timer switch.

Currently we have a seperate temperature sensor - I wont touch that. What
Im thinking I can replace is the timer switch - All it seems to do is just
make a electrical connection at a certain time for the heating and the
water tank (one for each)

So in theory, I should be able to take the live and common for these , and
just plug them straight into a CBUS relay channel (just like an X10 AM10).
I can then use Comfort's logic to activate the relays etc, and have a CBUS
switch show the status and can use that to override as well.

I'll also assume that it's 240v, and that it's less than 10Amps !

All make sense ? Anything Im missing ?

G.

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